The Humble King's Comeback
For generations, the jackfruit tree has been a familiar sight in the backyards of Kerala, its enormous, spiky fruit providing sustenance and flavour. Known as 'chakka' in Malayalam, it was a dependable, versatile ingredient, yet often overlooked in favour
of other produce. In fact, until recently, so much of it grew wild that tons of it would go to waste. However, a significant shift is underway. This once-neglected fruit is now being celebrated, finding its way onto the menus of trendy cafes, upscale restaurants, and health-conscious households across India and beyond. In 2018, in recognition of its importance, Kerala even declared the jackfruit its official state fruit.
From Tradition to Table
The love for chakka is deeply rooted in Kerala's culinary traditions. Unripe jackfruit, with its meaty texture, forms the base for a variety of savoury dishes. One of the most beloved preparations is 'chakka puzhukku', a comforting mash of cooked raw jackfruit with a coarse paste of coconut, shallots, and green chillies, often served with a spicy fish curry. Another classic is 'idichakka thoran', a stir-fry made from tender jackfruit, grated coconut, and spices. When ripe, the fruit's sweet, aromatic bulbs are used to make 'chakka varattiyathu', a rich, dark jam made with jaggery and ghee, which then becomes the base for a delectable payasam (kheer). And no one can forget the crispy, addictive 'chakka chips'.
The Urban Makeover
While traditional recipes remain cherished, the modern culinary world is giving the jackfruit an exciting new identity. Urban chefs and home cooks are now experimenting with this versatile ingredient, transforming it in innovative ways. Its fibrous texture when unripe makes it an excellent plant-based substitute for meat. It's not uncommon to find jackfruit tacos, pulled jackfruit burgers, and even 'kathal' biryani on menus in cities like Kochi and Thiruvananthapuram. Entrepreneurs are turning it into flour, which can be used to make healthier rotis and baked goods. Ripe jackfruit is being churned into ice creams, blended into smoothies, and baked into cakes, showcasing its adaptability from savoury to sweet.
Why Now? The Health and Nostalgia Factor
Several factors are driving this chakka revival. A growing global interest in veganism and plant-based diets has put the spotlight on jackfruit as a sustainable meat alternative. Furthermore, there is an increased focus on its impressive health benefits. Raw jackfruit is low in sugar and high in dietary fiber, vitamins like A and C, and minerals such as potassium and magnesium. It is considered beneficial for managing blood sugar levels, improving digestion, and boosting immunity. For many Malayalis living in cities, these dishes also evoke a powerful sense of nostalgia, a taste of home and simpler times. The COVID-19 lockdown also saw a surge in its popularity as people turned to local, readily available produce.
