A Gentle Start to a Festive Day
On the morning of Thiruvonam, before the grand preparations for the Sadhya begin, households in Kerala start the day with a special but often simpler breakfast. These dishes provide warmth and energy for the celebrations ahead. A popular choice is Puttu,
a steamed cylinder of ground rice and coconut, often served with a hearty Kadala curry made from black chickpeas. Another favourite is Idiyappam, delicate nests of steamed rice noodles, typically paired with a sweet, lightly spiced coconut milk. For those with a sweet tooth, the day might begin with Ilayada, a nostalgic treat of rice dough filled with a mixture of jaggery and coconut, wrapped in a banana leaf and steamed to perfection. These breakfast items, while less famous than the Sadhya, are deeply rooted in tradition and set a comforting and festive tone for the day.
Snacks That Signal Celebration
No Onam celebration is complete without an array of snacks, many of which are prepared in advance and served to guests throughout the festival. The most iconic of these are the banana chips, or Upperi, made from thinly sliced Nendran bananas fried to a crisp in coconut oil. Its sweet counterpart, Sharkara Varatti, features thicker banana pieces coated in a rich glaze of jaggery, dried ginger, and cardamom. Beyond these Sadhya staples, other festive bites make an appearance. Unniyappam, small, golden-brown fritters made from rice flour, banana, and jaggery, are a beloved sweet snack. Achappam, delicate and crispy rose-shaped cookies made from rice flour and coconut milk, are another festive essential, beautiful to look at and delightful to eat. These snacks are more than just food; they are an integral part of the festive rhythm of Onam.
The Sadhya: A Midday Masterpiece
Of course, the undeniable centerpiece of Onam is the Sadhya, a lavish vegetarian banquet served on a banana leaf. This multi-course meal can feature anywhere from 20 to over 30 dishes, each with its designated spot on the leaf. The feast begins with the serving of Kerala Matta rice, followed by a procession of dishes. These include Parippu (a simple dal curry with ghee), Sambar (a hearty lentil and vegetable stew), Avial (mixed vegetables in a coconut and yogurt gravy), and Thoran (stir-fried vegetables with grated coconut). Tangy additions like Pulissery (a yogurt-based curry) and Inji Puli (a ginger and tamarind chutney) cleanse the palate, while crispy Pappadams add a satisfying crunch. The Sadhya is a culinary marathon, a symbol of abundance and a testament to Kerala's rich agricultural heritage.
A Lighter Affair for Dinner
After the magnificent and heavy Onam Sadhya, the evening meal is typically a much lighter affair. It is a time for the digestive system to rest and recover from the elaborate midday feast. Many families opt for simple, comforting dishes. A common choice for dinner is Kanji, a simple rice gruel that is easy on the stomach. It is often served with Cherupayar, a straightforward green gram curry, and a side of pickles to add a bit of flavour. Others might have leftover Sadhya dishes in smaller portions. The idea is to have a meal that is nourishing yet simple, allowing the body to wind down after a day of indulgence. This contrast between the lavish lunch and the modest dinner is an essential part of the Onam food experience, reflecting a balance between feasting and simplicity.
Sweet Endings Beyond the Sadhya
While Payasam is the star dessert of the Sadhya, Kerala's Onam sweets don't end there. The main feast often includes more than one type of Payasam, such as the creamy milk-based Palada Payasam and the jaggery-rich Ada Pradhaman or Parippu Payasam. Another classic dessert is Chakka Pradhaman, a luscious pudding made from ripe jackfruit, jaggery, and coconut milk. Beyond the liquid desserts, there's also Boli, a sweet flatbread that resembles a Maharashtrian Puran Poli but can be made with a sweet potato filling called Sakkaravalli Kizhangu Poli. Kozhukatta, steamed rice dumplings stuffed with a sweet mixture of grated coconut and jaggery, are another traditional festive sweet. These desserts, each with its unique flavour and texture, offer a sweet conclusion to the ten-day-long harvest festival.
