New Delhi: Bandhani, one of India’s oldest textile traditions, continues to hold cultural and fashion relevance even today. Often linked to a history spanning
over 5,000 years, this intricate tie-dye craft is believed to have roots in the Indus Valley Civilisation, with early references seen in archaeological findings and ancient texts. Known for its detailed dotted patterns and vibrant colours, Bandhani has remained a part of celebrations, rituals and everyday wear across generations. The craft flourished in Gujarat and Rajasthan, where skilled artisans refined techniques that are still practised today.
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Over time, Bandhani travelled beyond India through trade routes, eventually influencing the global “bandana”. Today, the craft has found a place not just in traditional attire but also in contemporary fashion, from designer collections to global collaborations. As interest in heritage textiles grows, Bandhani continues to represent a blend of history, craftsmanship and evolving style across both Indian and international fashion landscapes.
Bandhani craft: History, process and modern relevance
Ancient origins and global journey
Bandhani is widely believed to date back over 5,000 years, with early forms of resist-dyeing seen in the Indus Valley Civilisation. References in Ajanta cave paintings and accounts from the time of Alexander the Great point to patterned Indian textiles that later travelled globally. By the 18th and 19th centuries, Bandhani fabrics reached Europe through trade, especially as silk handkerchiefs from Kasimbazar. These tie-dyed cloths eventually inspired the term “bandana”.
Meaning and technique behind Bandhani
The word Bandhani comes from the Sanskrit term bandh, meaning to tie. The process involves tying small sections of fabric tightly with thread before dyeing. Once opened, these tied points form distinctive dotted patterns. The craft is labour-intensive and relies on precision, often carried forward within artisan communities such as the Khatris in western India.
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Step-by-step bandhani process
The process begins with washing fabrics like cotton, silk or georgette to remove impurities. Designs are then printed using temporary dyes. Artisans carefully tie sections of the fabric based on these patterns. The cloth is dyed in stages, starting with lighter colours and moving to darker shades. For multi-colour designs, re-tying is done between dyeing stages. Finally, threads are removed to reveal the signature patterns, followed by washing and finishing.
Regional styles and craft centres
Gujarat and Rajasthan remain the main centres of Bandhani. Kutch and Saurashtra are known for dense patterns, while Jamnagar is recognised for rich red tones. Bhuj and Mandvi specialise in detailed motifs like Bavan Baug. Rajasthan offers bolder styles, including Leheriya and Mothra patterns, especially in Jaipur and Jodhpur. In Tamil Nadu, a related technique called Sungudi is practised in Madurai.
Motifs and symbolic patterns
Bandhani patterns range from simple dots like boond to complex designs such as chaubundi and satbundi. Motifs like keri (paisley), mor (peacock), and phool (floral) are common. Traditional patterns like gharchola and panetar hold significance in bridal wear, while Mata ni Chundadi is associated with religious offerings.
Bandhani in modern fashion
Bandhani has adapted well to contemporary fashion. It is now seen in sarees, lehengas and dupattas, as well as dresses, jackets and accessories. Designers have introduced the craft to global platforms, including Paris Fashion Week. Collaborations with international brands have also brought Bandhani into modern streetwear and global markets.
Styling Bandhani today
Bandhani sarees remain popular for weddings and festivals. For a modern look, they are often paired with crop tops, belts or structured blouses. The patterns are also used in accessories and home décor, expanding their presence beyond traditional clothing.
Bandhani in global fashion: Influence and debate
Bandhani has steadily entered global fashion, appearing across both collaborations and independent collections. Italian designer Roberto Cavalli worked with Indian artisans as part of Vogue India’s 2012 “Project Renaissance”, reinterpreting Bandhani from Kutch into couture pieces. The initiative also saw brands like Gucci and Burberry engage with traditional Indian crafts on an international platform.
Contemporary labels continue to adapt the technique in newer formats. NorBlack NorWhite, founded by Mriga Kapadiya and Amrit Kumar, has consistently used Bandhani in its collections, including a collaboration with Nike that brought the craft into sportswear. Designers such as Jean Paul Gaultier have also drawn on Indian-inspired patterns in past collections.
At the same time, global use of bandhani has sparked conversation. In 2026, Ralph Lauren faced criticism for using bandhani-style prints without clear acknowledgement of their Indian origins. As the craft gains visibility, there is increasing focus on proper credit, fair collaboration and recognition of artisan communities in Gujarat and Rajasthan.
Bandhani continues to bridge tradition and modern style, showing how an ancient Indian craft can remain relevant while influencing global fashion and evolving with changing design sensibilities.
