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The season of Jaisalmer has officially begun. Flights have resumed this week and the golden city is once again ready to open its arms to tourists with
a big smile and that signature Khamma Ghani! As the plane gets ready to touch down, the view from the window is breathtaking, a vast expanse of endless golden sand, only interrupted by small pops of green. Yes, green a sight that surprised us too like it surprises most visitors, because Jaisalmer which was once synonymous with dryness, has had a good spell of rain. There are now trees, shrubs and a hint of freshness to the desert air, something locals say was unheard of before. But does this greenery take away from the charm of the desert? Not at all. The contrast between the gold of the sand and soft green only makes Jaisalmer more captivating. As you drive into the city, the golden hues surround you. Every wall, palace and house is carved from the same yellow sandstone. The golden vibe is everywhere, from the sand beneath your feet to the fort walls that shimmer under the winter sun. Do carry your camera at all times, because Jaisalmer doesn’t have a single bad angle. However, don’t rush through it as the city reveals itself slowly and every turn will show you something that's worth pausing for.
Do not miss the Sam Sand Dunes
One thing that should be on your list is a stay at the tents on the Sam Sand Dunes, about a 40-minute drive from the airport. This is the Thar Desert experience that makes people fall in love with Jaisalmer, from the safari rides, the camels walking in slow rhythm against the setting sun, sheep and goats grazing all day long, the sound of Rajasthani folk songs filling the air and the stillness that only a desert night can bring. There are several camps to choose from but do check ratings and reviews before booking, because as locals told us, a lot of makeshift camps come up during the tourist rush. The Caravan, Royal Empire Camp & Resort and a few others are some trusted names. The staff at most camps are cheerful, helpful and know the best photo spots. They will even help you frame that perfect shot on the dunes. Just remember, bargaining is part of the experience here. Safari rates are often quoted at a premium, but if you negotiate politely you might just get a fair deal.
While at Sam, don’t miss indulging in Laal Maas and other local mutton delicacies. Some locals can even help you source fresh meat and prepare it for you. Just one bite will tell you just how good it is, rich, flavourful and unlike anything you have tasted elsewhere.
Do plan your dune visit early in the morning. The sooner you reach, the better because once the sun rises, the serenity is replaced by tourist jeeps, ATVs, camels and an overwhelming crowd of tourists. The early hours let you feel the chill of the sand, the calm of the breeze and the beauty of the endless desert before the bustle begins. The other must-try is a night safari or stargazing session, the desert sky here is like a glittering dome of a thousand stars. Some resorts even let you sleep under the open sky in the middle of the desert, right on the cold sand. And if you spot beetles through your torchlight, don’t panic, they are harmless.
A visit to India-Pakistan border
If you have more time, take a drive from Sam towards the India-Pakistan border. It is a surreal journey, passing through dusty roads, windmills and silence that stretches for miles. You can visit the Longewala War Memorial, Tannot Mata Temple and the Zero Point, which is the last point accessible to civilians. But here’s a small disclaimer: don’t expect to actually see the Pakistan border. Tourists are stopped about five kilometers before India’s post. Still, it’s worth the drive, especially if you love history and open landscapes. Standing there, you can almost feel the echoes of the 1971 Longewala battle that once took place on that very soil.
Jaisalmer Fort and city experience
Once you have had your fill of the desert and the border adventure, you can head back into the city and make your way to the Jaisalmer Fort, also known as the Golden Fort or Sonar Qila. It looks absolutely majestic from a distance, sitting atop the city in all its golden glory. But here’s what most people don’t expect, it is not a monument but a living fort. People actually live there, run shops and own cafes inside the ancient walls. As you enter, you will likely be navigating through crowds, honking scooters, stray cows and vendors calling out from both sides. It’s chaotic, yes, but it’s also part of the charm. The fort houses the Raja Mahal and Rani Mahal, which you can explore for a small entry fee of ₹200 for Indians and ₹500 for foreigners. The interiors are beautifully preserved, showcasing premium woodwork and intricate carvings. From one of the balconies, you can see the entire golden city glimmering under the sun, a sight that should be captured.
Another piece of advice - visit the fort early morning before it gets too crowded and don’t plan to bring your car as vehicles are not allowed inside. Many travelers book boutique stays within the fort, only to realise later that they have to drag their luggage uphill through narrow alleys. So, if you plan to stay inside the fort, check the access and amenities carefully before booking.
Where to stay in Jaisalmer
As for where to stay in Jaisalmer, you are spoiled for choice. There is the ultra-luxurious Suryagarh Palace, which made headlines after Sidharth Malhotra and Kiara Advani’s wedding, and other big names like Marriott and Taj. They are all gorgeous properties. But if you are looking for something more traditional, there are beautiful heritage properties that give you a royal experience without the hefty price tag. Do book your stay in advance if you are visiting between November and February as it is their peak season and the best places fill up fast.
One more thing that makes Jaisalmer special are its people. The locals are warm, polite and genuinely happy to see visitors. They will greet you with broad smiles, eager to help and share stories. Sure, sometimes it might feel a bit touristy, but it is all part of the experience.
Do carry some cash, as not every small shop or stall accepts UPI. Do pack a scarf or shawl, because the desert nights can get unexpectedly cold. Do wear sunscreen, because even in winter, the desert sun can tan you faster than you think. And whatever you do, don’t litter. Jaisalmer’s beauty deserves respect. By the time you drive back to the airport, watching the golden landscape slowly fade into the horizon, you will realise Jaisalmer isn’t just a place, it is a feeling. A mix of sand, history, warmth and wonder.
Jaisalmer Dos and Don’ts Recap
Dos
Visit from November to February for perfect weather.
Catch a sunrise or sunset at Sam Sand Dunes.
Try local Rajasthani cuisine - laal maas, dal baati churma and gatte ki sabzi are a must.
Carry a scarf or shawl as mornings and evenings can get chilly.
Keep cash handy, as not all small vendors accept UPI.
Don’ts
Don’t rely solely on online photos for camps or hotels, cross-check reviews.
Don’t litter in the desert or near the fort.
Don’t underestimate travel times, roads are scenic but long.
Don’t skip sunscreen, even winter sun here can tan you fast.
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