Mesón Txistu (pronounced, meh-zan CHEE-stoo) is a Basque-inspired restaurant and Real Madrid hangout of legends, past and present. On any given night you might find yourself rubbing shoulders with both
sporting and pop-culture icons. Opening its doors in 1972, the restaurant’s see-and-be-seen scene has become Madrid lore. It has become an institution revered for delectable kitchen offerings, a prolific collection of wines, and impeccable service.
One of Mesón Txistu’s hallowed passageways is lined with a photo galaxy of Real Madrid stars, including: Cristiano Ronaldo, Zinedine Zidane, Karim Benzema, Gareth Bale, Luca Modrić, Roberto Carlos, Hugo Sánchez, and Raúl. Scattered amongst these portraits are those of other global sports heroes such as, Diego Maradona, Pele, Rafael Nadal, Novak Djokovic, and Pau Gasol. Yet alongside those are even more: A-Listers of cinema like, Tom Cruise, Nicolas Cage, and Salma Hayek.
It’s immediately clear that Mesón Txistu holds a special status in Madrid. There are few places capable of attracting such an illustrious crowd from both sporting and entertain- ment worlds. This restaurant is a Spanish treasure, tucked just beyond the shadows of the Santiago Bernabéu.
Through still another passage, one is greeted by a bar adorned with legs of jamón ibérico, hanging from hooks around its entire perimeter. It serves as a visual invitation to savor something exceptional— tempting you to sample the cured delicacy if so inclined.
My wife and I chose seats at the bar to begin the evening’s delights. She ordered a sensational glass of the House red. Being a lover of exceptional whiskies, I started with Lagavulin 16. Both selections proved foundational to the savory joys that would follow.
Our expert bartender presented us with an intimate plate of complimentary tapas, including locally sourced and just-right-brined olives. The tapas brilliantly punctuated the start of an unforgettable meal. Exceptionally generous pours soon arrived. Hers in an exquisite crystal stem and mine, properly neat.
After a few sips, our host arrived to join us for a cocktail. We were warmly welcomed by the Manager, who then personally escorted us to our table.
Seated, we were then greeted with a double amuse-bouche. One presentation held guindillas— tangy green peppers from the Basque region. Immaculately pickled, they gave us a curious “kick”. The second featured chistorra, a Basque-cured sausage fried to perfection with a gentle measure of smoked paprika. Each was precisely on-point. So good in fact, I could have savored a platter without hesitation.
The first appetizer to arrive was a hearty salad meant to be shared among the four of us. It was accompanied by beautiful cuts of fresh tuna paired with large slices of farm-fresh tomatoes. Simple. Delicious. Magnificently executed.
Our host ordered bottles of Alión 2021 Ribera del Duero for the table. A refreshing, tantalizing red, it opened with a fruity aroma, yet carried with cleanly balanced spiced wood notes. It was an outstanding selection. (Later that night, curiosity got the better of me and I looked it up. Not surprisingly, the wine achieved mid-to-upper 90s ratings across multiple publications.) Next came the Gambas al Ajillo. These plump, finely garlicked shrimp are served sizzling in a traditional clay dish. Rich, aromatic, and deeply satisfying, they immediately reminded me of the signature dish at La Casa del Abuelo, located between the Sol and Barrio de las Letras neighborhoods.
Our third appetizer, substantial enough to be a main course on its own, was the Pulpo a la Brasa: fresh-grilled octopus served atop hearty papas. The octopus was wonderfully rustic, expertly seasoned, and succulent. When I see octopus on a menu, I order it. This, because the dish tests any chef’s command of instincts and technique. Mesón Txistu passed with aplomb.
The highlight of the evening was the main course: Chuletón Txistu. These rich, buttery-tender ribeye strips arrive thinly-sliced, seasoned only with large, glistening flakes of imported sea salt. Doing so allows the meat to take center stage, as it should. A table-top flat grill plate allows guests to custom cook the protein to their liking. Thusly, the experience becomes interactive as each finishes his or her strips to varying degrees of doneness. It takes only moments, especially if one enjoys ribeye medium-rare, as I do.
The strips were astonishingly tender. Each bite, phenomenal. Chuletón Txistu rivals the full-bodied richness of Japanese Wagyu. Even at this stage of our meal we savored every morsel. Smiles crossed our faces out of equal parts appreciation for the dinner, and gratitude for the shared moment.
The wine, the company, and conversation— all entwined with an atmosphere of country elegance— assured an unforgettable experience.
Recalling it now feels distinctly Madrileño. We look forward to our return someday. Until then…
Muchas gracias, Miguel, nuestro anfitrión, por la invitación, la generosidad y la comida increíble. Tienes un amigo para toda la vida.
