In the summer, Sunderland’s upcoming European tour still felt like the stuff of make-believe, somehow always on the horizon but tantalisingly out of reach. Even after the excitement of the draw, when we could finally realise our plans for Portugal, Poland, Italy and Belgium, the reality of what it meant still didn’t hit home. It was only really after the home win against Alkmaar, living through that majestic display at a packed Stadium of Light and the thriving atmosphere in the city centre, that these
continental trips started to feel like something that would actually be happening in reality rather than fantasy.
One of the best parts of this has been chatting to other fans and hearing about the weird, wonderful and downright hilarious lengths to which some people are resorting in order to get to these games. From planned fake hospital appointments to 12-hour road trips, to flights to Milan via Lithuania and Albania, you just have to respect the sheer ingenuity and bloody-mindedness of fans not to miss out on these historic occasions. Here’s a brief whistle-stop guide to the four destinations set to be invaded by the Red and White army over the coming months.
Leiria, Portugal, Thursday 15th October
Probably the most inspiring underdog story of this year’s Europa League sees second-division Portuguese side SCU Torreense, winners of the Portuguese Cup, taking to the European stage alongside some of the continent’s household names. Hailing from the city of Torres Vedras, their home stadium holds a modest 2,431 fans, so they have been obliged to relocate their League Stage fixtures to a venue that meets UEFA standards. They might seem like accommodating opponents on paper, but Sunderland should underestimate them at our peril, or suffer the same fate that befell Sporting Lisbon in the Taça de Portugal final.
Despite rumours online that Torreense would be playing their home games in the Algarve (probably wishful thinking on the part of Sunderland fans desperate to return to Albufeira’s Tic Tac Bar), we will in fact be facing them in the city of Leiria, at the Dr. Magalhães Pessoa Stadium. Leiria seems to be a pleasant enough location, with picturesque views and excellent local cuisine, though time will tell if the local bars have enough Super Bock and Sagres to quench the insatiable thirst of the travelling Mackems.
Despite Leiria being something of a pain to access logistically, the weather there in mid-October should still be pretty temperate, and this trip offers fans a nice excuse to break up the journey by staying over in the vibrant cities of Lisbon and Porto (though bear in mind the former will also be playing host to Celtic fans as they face Sporting, which might make things a little too vibrant for some).
Poznań, Poland, Thursday 22nd October
While December’s trip to Milan is understandably hogging the limelight, Lech Poznań away is my personal tip to be the highlight of our League Stage adventures on the road. The Polish side are mainstays in European football, even if they’ve had their identity somewhat hijacked in the UK by Man City’s lame imitation of their eponymous backwards-facing dance (hopefully coming soon to a National League stadium near you). The ten-time Polish champions endured a tough opening round to their Europa League campaign, suffering a heavy defeat away to Crystal Palace, but facing them in their cauldron of a stadium will be a different prospect for the Lads, and the fiery presentations from their Ultras section should be a sight to behold.
As for the city itself, Poznań ticks all the boxes for a memorable Eastern European city break. Beautiful architecture, affordable beer and a stunning town square which is sure to serve as the main meeting point for the travelling fans. Polish police may have a reputation for being heavy-handed, but in my experience, as long as you keep your wits about you and treat the locals and the city with respect, you shouldn’t encounter any problems. There are direct flights from London which seem to have been snapped up pretty quickly, but the Polish train network is generally quite reliable, and the city is easily reached from Warsaw or Wrocław.
Autumn temperatures in Poland can fluctuate quite wildly, so be sure to pack a thick jacket just in case (either clothing or the beer variety should do the job).
Milan, Italy, Thursday 10th December
Ah, the San Siro. As the Stone Roses sang, this is the one I’ve waited for. The big one, the one that will finally put to bed one of the most tedious Geordie chants for decades, and given how unimaginative the patter from that lot is, that’s quite a statement. The Rossoneri, of course, need no introduction; one of the giants of European football, with a richly decorated history and a name that evokes nostalgia for the baggy kits and moustachioed maestros of the late 20th Century.
You could almost sense the elation that erupted on Wearside when we were drawn as one of the lucky sides to visit the San Siro before its demolition, and whatever the state of play in early December, it promises to be the trip of a lifetime. Every Black Cats fan and his dog seems to be descending on the city, with or without a ticket, and the prospect of Sunderland banners and chants filling the air around the Duomo seems unmissable.
On the pitch, while Milan are undoubtedly a huge name in European football, Sunderland should not be overly daunted by the current crop in red and black. While they possess plenty of quality, the frankly ridiculous strength in depth of the Premier League means Sunderland are used to facing sides of a similar or superior calibre most weeks; you could argue that a trip to Brentford is genuinely more challenging than facing Milan at the San Siro these days. Regardless, the magnitude of the occasion alone will likely make this an all-timer, and any positive result on the pitch would merely be the cherry on top of the icing on the cake.
Brussels, Belgium, Thursday 21st January
Tucked away at the end of January in an arguably unexotic destination, the trip to Anderlecht might be the least exciting of our European trips on paper, but I would urge any naysayers playing it down to reconsider. Unlike our other destinations, Brussels is one of the best-connected cities in Europe, with plenty of transport options making this an ideal option for a quick visit. For those of us travelling from London, it offers a nice excuse to jump on the Eurostar for a chance to indulge in what Belgium does best: chocolate and beer.
RSC Anderlecht are another European regular, who have launched the careers of many Belgian stars, including Romelu Lukaku and Vincent Kompany. The Purple and Whites narrowly lost their opening game at home to Lyon, but they will still provide a decent test for the Lads; hopefully, by this point, we will be in a strong position to wrap up our place in the knockout stages and prepare for the ensuing panic over tickets, annual leave and travel that will ensue.
