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PIGEON FORGE, TN – The last thing you see walking out of the gift shop at Dollywood’s main exit is a brick wall painted with the words "I will always love you!" signed Dolly.
I wasn’t sure what to expect on my first trip back since Dolly Parton’s passing, but I felt that love coursing through her namesake park and its people – her people, as she called them – on the opening weekend of Dollywood’s Smoky Mountain Christmas festival.
"Dolly’s love for the Christmas season began right here in these beautiful Smoky Mountains. She loved Christmas because it is the time of year when wonder and family
come together and help us create new special memories that become traditions everyone cherishes," Dollywood Parks & Resorts President Eugene Naughton said in a statement.
Here’s what it’s like visiting Dollywood, its first holiday season without her.
A holly Dolly Christmas
I first visited Dollywood 11 years ago and distinctly remember being wowed by its extensive Christmas decorations, which extend to every corner of the park, unlike at some other destinations.
Now, as then, Dollywood dazzles like Parton did, with more than six million lights that started going up over the summer. My favorite area was Craftsman’s Valley, where you can watch local artisans work by day and walk under strings of synchronized lights at night, making you feel like you’re in an enchanted forest.
Live entertainment adds to the festive atmosphere. Dollywood is known for its talented performers, including some of Parton’s family members. The first time I interviewed Dolly Parton in 2023, she told me, "I love the music that we have in the park. Of course, I would be drawn to that as much as anything." There are all different kinds of shows throughout the day. I only saw "Christmas in the Smokies," but I also stopped to listen to a solo guitarist playing Christmas carols while I was taking a break from attractions.
If you’re a thrill seeker, Lightning Rod is amazing after dark because the roller coaster track is unlit, so you can’t see where you’re going, but you can catch fantastic views of the park all lit up. The drop tower Drop Line also offers stunning views, slowly spinning as it ascends, before plunging more than 20 stories.
For a calmer pace, hop on the Dollywood Express, a 20-minute steam train ride around the park. Make sure to arrive at least 30 minutes early to secure a seat – and maybe grab a tissue. I teared up when they starting playing the late legend’s Christmas songs on board, but the train conductor really got me when he told us to look out over the park at Parton’s pride, her people.
Christmas without Dolly
I remembered how Parton beamed talking about Dollywood’s employees, who are officially referred to as hosts. "We have some of the sweetest people on Earth working here at the park," she told me, adding that she considered everyone in the region "my people."
Newsweek just recognized Dollywood as having the best customer service among U.S. theme park companies. The park still feels as warm and welcoming as Parton was and as she wanted it to be when she was dreamer-in-chief.
Everywhere I Iooked, guests appeared to be enjoying themselves the same way they did before her passing.
Some may have felt tugs on their heartstrings like I did on the train or when "Christmas Without You" by Dolly Parton and Kenny Rogers started playing in the courtyard of The Dolly Parton Experience, but no one looked sad to me. On the contrary, people were smiling, laughing and screaming on rides.
"We hope that everyone who visits us this season experiences the love and joy of a traditional Smoky Mountain Christmas. We hope they’ll laugh, love and linger as they enjoy the light of the season, just as Dolly would have wanted them to do," Naughton said. "We also hope they create those new memories and family traditions that they’ll share for many years to come."
The reporter on this story received access from Dollywood. USA TODAY maintains editorial control of content.
Eve Chen is a senior consumer travel reporter for USA TODAY, based in the Atlanta area. You can reach her at echen@usatoday.com.
This article originally appeared on USA TODAY: Dolly Parton is gone, but her Christmas spirit lives on at Dollywood
