The Basics of Hair Typing
The most widely used method for classifying hair is the Andre Walker Hair Typing System, which categorizes hair based on its curl pattern. This system divides hair into four main types: Type 1 (Straight), Type 2 (Wavy), Type 3 (Curly), and Type 4 (Coily).
These types are then broken down into subcategories (A, B, and C) to describe the tightness or intensity of the wave or curl. To find your type, wash your hair, let it air-dry completely without any products, and then compare your strands to a hair-type chart. Most people have a combination of patterns on their head, so don't worry if you don't fit perfectly into one box.
Don't Forget About Porosity
Beyond your curl pattern, hair porosity—your hair's ability to absorb and retain moisture—is a critical factor in its health. Porosity determines which products will work for you and how your hair will react to them. There are three levels: low, medium, and high. An easy way to test this is the float test: drop a clean, dry strand of hair into a glass of water. If it floats, you have low porosity hair, which has a tightly bound cuticle layer that resists moisture. If it sinks quickly, you have high porosity hair, meaning the cuticles are open and absorb moisture fast but can also lose it just as quickly. If it hovers in the middle, you likely have medium porosity hair.
Care for Straight Hair (Type 1)
Straight hair tends to get oily faster than other types because natural oils from the scalp can travel down the hair shaft easily. The main goals are managing oil and creating volume without weighing hair down. Use a lightweight or volumizing shampoo and conditioner, focusing the conditioner primarily on the mid-lengths and ends to avoid greasy roots. Over-washing can strip natural oils, so washing every 2-3 days is often recommended. A weekly clarifying shampoo or scalp scrub can remove product buildup and keep your scalp healthy. Dry shampoo can be a great tool for refreshing hair between washes.
Care for Wavy Hair (Type 2)
Wavy hair sits between straight and curly, and the goal is often to enhance the natural wave pattern without causing frizz or weighing it down. Lighter-weight styling products like mousses, gels, and wave-enhancing sprays are ideal. Apply products to damp, not soaking wet, hair and scrunch upwards to encourage definition. Since wavy hair can be prone to dryness, consider shampooing just a few times a week with a gentle, hydrating formula. To protect your waves overnight and reduce frizz, try sleeping on a silk or satin pillowcase.
Care for Curly Hair (Type 3)
Curly hair thrives on moisture. Because of the twists and turns of the hair shaft, natural oils have a harder time reaching the ends, making this type prone to dryness and frizz. A solid routine involves using sulfate-free shampoos, or even co-washing (washing with conditioner only), to avoid stripping moisture. Deep conditioning treatments should be a weekly ritual. When styling, apply products like leave-in conditioners and curl creams to soaking wet hair to lock in hydration and define your curls. Drying with a microfiber towel or an old t-shirt instead of a traditional terrycloth towel can significantly reduce frizz.
Care for Coily Hair (Type 4)
Coily hair is the driest and most fragile of the hair types, requiring a routine centered on rich, consistent moisturization and gentle handling. Washing should be limited to once or twice a week with a deeply hydrating, shampoo-free cleanser. Pre-pooing, which involves applying an oil or conditioner before you wash, can help protect the hair and retain moisture. The LOC (Leave-in, Oil, Cream) method is a popular technique for layering products to seal in hydration. Protective styles like braids and twists can help minimize manipulation and breakage. When detangling, always use your fingers or a wide-tooth comb on hair that is saturated with conditioner to prevent snapping.
