LEICESTER - Last summer, the nation learned the name Montgomery Sky Farm when co-founder and executive chef Taylor Montgomery won the James Beard Award for Best Chef: Southeast. The barn dining experiences have become even more popular, leading to sold-out events and attracting more farm visitors and farm stand customers to the Leicester farm.
Montgomery Sky Farm is one example of Leicester's local agricultural businesses and agrotourism destinations, with many more across Buncombe County and Western North Carolina. Each farm is distinct, from what it grows and raises for customers to its on-farm guest services and interactions.
Some farms may be familiar farmers market vendors, or you may have seen their name listed at restaurants as suppliers
of the fresh ingredients used in your favorite dishes. Others may be places you visit for wine sipping and live entertainment next to rows of vineyards, with rolling mountain views creating the perfect backdrop.
The Asheville Citizen Times visited six Leicester and Sandy Mush farms, where farmers gave an inside look at their operations and showcased what makes their diverse products special. In this series, the farmers candidly speak about their farm origins, challenges, successes, and motivations to continue feeding and serving their community, despite hardships including inflation, climate change, destructive storm devastation, and an imperfect system that seems to favor large monocrop commercial farms over small, independent, diverse farms.
Here's an introduction to the featured agricultural businesses in the ACT Leicester farm series, including how to visit them and stock your pantry and fridge with their fresh, original products.
Wild Embers Farm
Private farm, Leicester; appalachiangrown.org; @wild.embers.farm.
Meet the farmers: Ashley Goritz and Sean O’Neil, a couple for 18 years, purchased the farmhouse property in 2020, which was the same year they welcomed their first child. In the early years, they grew a flower garden and then began raising chickens. The cost of grocery store eggs led them to produce and sell farm eggs.
What they sell: The 8-acre farm continues to evolve and grow, with a variety of seasonal crops and livestock, including tomatoes, potatoes, zucchini, squash, hot peppers, chickens and eggs.
Where to find them: The couple's small home farming operation is closed to the public, though they hope to host workshops one day and connect with more people to discuss farming. For now, customers can purchase their products at Leicester Farmers Market 3-6:30 p.m. Wednesdays at the Leicester Community Center through Oct. 28, and Yancey Farmers Market, 8:30 a.m.-12:30 p.m. Saturdays through Nov. 14, at the Community Resource Pavilion at 322 West Main Street in Burnsville.
Gaining Ground Farm
298 Sluder Branch Road, Leicester; gaininggroundfarm-nc.com; @gaininggroundfarm.
Meet the farmers: Aaron and Anne Grier established their farm in 2007, and now operate on about 20 acres of farmland.
What they sell: The seasonal harvests rotate with produce including garlic, tomatoes, sweet potatoes, onions, turmeric, greens, lettuce, berries, basil and other fresh herbs.
Where to find them: Gaining Ground products, including garlic, can be found at local restaurants, including Crusco, Leo’s House of Thirst and The Admiral.
Buy directly from the farm at the River Arts District Farmers Market from 3-6 p.m. on Wednesdays at New Belgium Brewing in West Asheville and North Asheville Tailgate Market from 8 a.m.-Noon on Saturdays on the University of North Carolina Asheville campus, with hours subject to change for the winter market. The farm also runs a small CSA program.
The Utopian Seed Project
Various fields, Leicester/Alexander; utopianseed.org; @utopianseedproject.
Meet the farmers: Founded by Chris Smith, the Utopian Seed Project is dedicated to trialing crops and varieties to support diversity in food and farming. The farm management team is Leeza Chen and LuAnna Nesbitt, with Chef Terri Terrell as the culinary director.
What they sell: The wide inventory includes various kinds of okra, dry beans, greens, tomatoes, peppers and more. The seed program encourages farmers to buy and save seeds and experiment with growing regional adaptations of the species. Home growers can purchase seeds through Appalachian Seed Growers Seed Collective, utopianseed.org/appalachian-seed-growers.
Where to find them: The Utopian Seed Project hosts educational and interactive pop-up dining events with local chefs, cooks and culinary creators preparing small bites using farm trials and other local ingredients for guests. The next event is from 1-4 p.m. Nov. 7 at The Mule. Tickets cost $30-90.
Good Wheel Farm
293 Sandy Mush Creek Road; Sandy Mush/Leicester; goodwheelfarm.com; @goodwheelfarm.
Meet the farmers: Michael and Anna RiCharde established the farm in 2019 and began selling produce in 2021. The 42-acre farm focuses on growing vegetables and raising livestock, as well as cultivating trees and native plants to preserve the landscape and support conservation.
What they sell: The RiChardes offer chicken, duck, grass-fed beef, lamb (seasonal), certified organic pasture-raised eggs for retail and wholesale. Good Wheel Farm also blends and packages sausages, using original recipes with rotating flavors.
Where to find them: North Asheville Tailgate Market, 8 a.m.-Noon on Saturdays, on the University of North Carolina Asheville campus. Restaurant clients include Neng Jr.'s, which purchases whole ducks, as well as The Radical Hotel's Golden Hour.
Good Wheel Farm recently started hosting public events. Visit goodwheelfarm.com for upcoming butchery workshops, farm tours, dinners and more.
Addison Farms Vineyard
4005 New Leicester Highway, Leicester; addisonfarms.net; @addisonfarms.
Meet the farmers: Jeff and Dianne Frisbee established the vineyard in 2009. Jeff Frisbee is the fourth-generation family owner; his maternal grandfather purchased the land in 1937, and it operated as a cattle and tobacco farm and family garden. It took nearly three growing seasons for the vineyard to produce grapes for wine.
What they sell: Wine varieties made from grapes grown in their vineyard are available by the glass and by the bottle at the winery's tasting room, and include Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Sangiovese, Petit Verdot, and Petit Manseng.
Where to find them: The winery is open to the public, and it is a destination for enjoying Addison's wine selections, a meal from a chef pop-up or food truck, live music, dancing and other entertainment in the event barn.
Thatchmore Farm
Private farm, Leicester; thatchmorefarm.com.
Meet the farmers: Liz Elmore and her father, Tom Elmore, operate the 5-acre farm, which includes greenhouses, on the 11-acre family farm they've owned since the 1980s.
What they sell: Thatchmore Farm's Japanese cucumbers have become so popular that loyal customers seeking them out are referred to as the "Cucumber Crew." Other produce includes carrots, celery, shallots, squash, wasabi and beans. Tom Elmore also offers Yaupon holly (often used to make caffeinated teas) and basket willows (for crafters to use in basket weaving).
Where to find them: Stop by their booth at the North Asheville Tailgate Market and West Asheville Tailgate Market , as well as the Leicester Farmers Market at The Utopian Seed Project's table, featuring various local farms. Subscribe to the farm's weekly CSA program for full- or half-share boxes of mixed fruits and vegetables, available from April through October.
Farmers and tailgate markets in WNC
The Appalachian Sustainability Agricultural Project (ASAP) Connections has recorded nearly 100 farmers markets in the Appalachian Grown region the organization oversees, which spans WNC, where shoppers can find fresh produce, pasture-raised meats and eggs, artisan food and beverages, and more to stock their kitchen.
Visit ASAP's Local Food Guide at appalachiangrown.org for farmers market locations and details, restaurants and lodging properties that source from local farms, and more farms to visit and support across the region.
Tiana Kennell is the food and dining reporter for the Asheville Citizen Times, part of the USA TODAY Co., covering the food and beverage industry, including the James Beard Awards, Michelin Guide, restaurant openings, closings and other hospitality industry news and events. Tips, comments, questions? Email tkennell@citizentimes.com or follow @PrincessOfPage on Instagram. Sign up for AVL Bites and Brews, our weekly food and drink newsletter here.
This article originally appeared on Asheville Citizen Times: Meet 6 Leicester farms feeding WNC through challenge and change
