A few months ago, Rick Rosenfield, the co-founder of California Pizza Kitchen, found himself arguing about pizzawith California Gov. Gavin Newsom's office.
It was not the first unlikely chapter in his career.
Before transforming America's restaurant scene, Rosenfield and his longtime friend and business partner, Larry Flax, were federal prosecutors.
Rosenfield’s terrific new memoir, “The California Pizza Kitchen Story: How Two Federal Prosecutors Changed the Way America Eats Pizza,” is the a No. 1 Amazon bestseller that tells how two lawyers with zero restaurant experience built one of the most influential casual-dining chains in the country.
During his book tour, Rosenfield suggested he would start California Pizza Kitchen in Florida rather than
California if they were launching the chain today.
The governor's office responded that "Florida Pizza Kitchen" didn't exactly have the same ring to it.
Rosenfield wasn't persuaded.
He started imagining the menu. Maybe a Jamaican jerk chicken pizza. Maybe a Cubano pizza.
"I actually sort of like it," he said.
California Pizza Kitchen: The legacy Rosenfield seems most proud of
The California-versus-Florida debate generated headlines, but the most revealing moment during our conversation came when I played Rosenfield a message from Tara Dodson, a former California Pizza Kitchen employee preparing to open her own restaurant in Palm Beach Gardens.
Dodson spent 12 years with the company and credits California Pizza Kitchen with shaping her career.
"I don't think I would ever be able to do that without California Pizza Kitchen," she said. "The only reason I left was because you sold to that investment firm and then they changed all the wonderful things that you guys and Larry put together."
The comment clearly landed.
Throughout our interview, Rosenfield kept returning to the same idea.
Not pizza. Not growth. Not celebrity customers.
Culture.
California Pizza Kitchen became famous for barbecue chicken pizza. It helped introduce millions of Americans to combinations that once seemed unusual.
But Rosenfield insists the food was never the whole story.
"The barbecue chicken pizza got people in the door," he said. "Culture brought them back."
That culture showed up in details from spiffy black and white uniforms matching the dining room décor to designing open kitchens that put the kitchen's work on display.
Rosenfield’s wife, Esther Rosenfield, went to work as the original hostess, helping establish the warm reception he still prizes in restaurants today.
Where he eats in Palm Beach County
The Rosenfields moved to Palm Beach as year-round residents two years ago after more than five decades in California.
“Moving here surprised me,” he said. “It’s so calming compared to Los Angeles. You’re surrounded by water. The people are very friendly.”
He has since become an enthusiastic and opinionated observer of Palm Beach County's dining scene.
His regular rotation includes Oceano Kitchen, Lamarina, Estiatorio Milos, The Blue Door, Michelin's Bib Gourmand-winning Aioli, Palm Beach Grill, La Goulue and Santucci's.
He also enjoys lunch at the Four Seasons Resort Palm Beach and Al Fresco at the Palm Beach Par 3 Golf Course.
He praised the wagyu burger and fries at Palm Beach Meats as the "best he's ever eaten."
But one restaurant kept resurfacing in our conversation.
When I asked which local restaurant most closely captures the spirit of early California Pizza Kitchen, Rosenfield chose Buccan, not because its food resembles CPK's, but because of its hospitality, consistency and easygoing appeal.
“I think it's the level of service, the level of food and the fact that it's so approachable,” he said. “It's really an impressively approachable restaurant.”
He places Buccan in the tradition of New York City's Union Square Cafe, another restaurant celebrated as much for how it treats people as for what it serves.
Rosenfield said the best restaurants make guests feel welcome whether they're regulars or first-time visitors. That's one reason Buccan stands out to him.
He also speaks enthusiastically about Palm Beach County's range of dining options, from neighborhood favorites to destination restaurants like Milos.
Still a pizza freak
For all the talk about hospitality, Rosenfield remains gloriously obsessed with pizza.
If he sits down at California Pizza Kitchen tomorrow, he's ordering barbecue chicken pizza with Thai chicken a close second.
He's still fascinated by dough hydration, fermentation and oven technology. During our interview, he happily detoured into discussions of local pizza shops, Roman-style crusts and why he likes Adrienne's square pizza.
"I'm pretty much a pizza freak," he said.
That obsession may explain why he still views Palm Beach County through the eyes of a restaurateur.
He loves the growth. He loves the energy. He loves the influx of ambitious operators.
If he'd like to see more of anything, more concepts would center on organic ingredients, farmers-market culture and cleaner eating, pointing to Plum Market and Pura Vida as examples of businesses moving in that direction.
For now though, he's content being a customer.
The man who helped change how Americans eat pizza has become something else: an enthusiastic restaurant patron working his way through Palm Beach County's dining scene one meal at a time.
Diana Biederman is the Palm Beach Post's food & restaurant writer. Her favorite pizza joint is Leonardi's in North Palm Beach. Care to share news tips about the local dining scene? Please send them to dbiederman@pbpost.com. Help support our journalism. Subscribe today.
This article originally appeared on Palm Beach Post: California Pizza Kitchen co-founder shares favorite local restaurants
