Kevin Armon knows how to keep customers happy. One night at his new Madisonville restaurant, Concorde
, I watched as he sent an entree of mussels to a table of visiting Belgians. Mussels aren't on the menu, but Armon later told me he wanted to make them feel at home. Armon knows how to work his dining room while keeping a close eye on everything that comes out of the kitchen. Since the recipes are all his, the stakes are high.In a year that's seen many big-name restaurants open throughout the city, Concorde might be the sleeper hit. That's because, while most of those other places are still finding their footing, this one came out swinging with a fully realized menu, mission and identity.
Just a few months after opening, Concorde already feels
like a reliable upscale/casual spot that's been around for years. During my two visits, the place was filled with well-heeled men in golf shirts and women in Lilly Pulitzer dresses who seemed like regulars. Some were fans of Armon from his days managing Somm Wine Bar, in East Price Hill, where he was also in charge of the wine program, so be sure to ask him for recommendations.
Perhaps the restaurant's early success is in its outlier status. In a city that's been veering away from classic French cuisine, Concorde is a throwback to the kinds of menus many of us remember from the old days. There are pan-fried frog legs in garlic butter and parsley ($14), escargots de Bourgogne ($19) and coq au vin ($36). There are well-executed Italian dishes, too, including a comforting shrimp scampi ($35) with linguine bathed in white wine fish broth and enough garlic, capers and fresh herbs to make it sing like an Italian aria.
Concorde is located in Madamore, a ho-hum mixed-use development at the intersection of Whetsel and Madison avenues. Inside has far more character with a bar area and two moody dining rooms painted blue and gray, with twilight blue-saturated photography by the French artist D'Lavigne. Pops of color come courtesy of the yellow tufted banquets and a few off-white suspended ceilings. Two discreet televisions mounted above the bar were showing the U.S. Open last time I visited.
What to order at Concorde
Start with a cocktail. I ordered a boulevardier with good vermouth while my dining companion had a whisky sour she claimed was the best she's had in Cincinnati. I also like the beer list, which includes imports such as Bavik, Pilsner Urquell and Estrella Damm, along with American craft beers, including Maine's Allagash White on tap.
For an appetizer, order the sauteed calamari, which is so much better than the fried versions you're used to – the tender calamari served with spicy chorizo, capers, spinach and sweet cherry tomatoes in a broth of fish stock, white wine and lemon. Or try the bibb salad with applewood smoked bacon and savory gorgonzola vinaigrette, or the plump, buttery oysters Rockefeller ($5 each).
My favorite entree was that coq au vin I mentioned. You might question Armon's decision to use just chicken thighs instead of the traditional whole chicken, but you'll change your tune once you bite into the crispy lacquered skin that gives way to juicy poultry. Meaty wild mushrooms, sweet, salty lardons and a dab of whipped potatoes are served on the side.
Grilled swordfish ($39) is equally well prepared: the moist flesh buttery and flavorful, topped with a dollop of olive tapenade and nestled in a shallow pool of brown butter vinaigrette with boiled potatoes, roasted leeks and watercress.
Speaking of sides, Armon's green bean amandine ($9) is spot on: crisp and nutty with brown butter, and his hand-cut golden french fries ($9), best enjoyed with a burger, are perfection. Even the side of mac and cheese ($13) my daughter ordered – with melted Gruyere, fontina and cream cheese – won me over, a surprise since I generally don't like mac and cheese (strange, I know).
With Concorde, Armon has created a place for spontaneous dinners, whether you're catching up with friends or on an impromptu date night with your honey at the bar. Given how good it is – and that it's less than five minutes from my house – I might be a regular there soon. Maybe I'll even buy a golf shirt.
4925 Whetsel Ave., Madisonville, 513-790-4486, concorderestaurant.com. Hours: 4-9 p.m. Tuesday-Thursday, 4-10 p.m. Friday-Saturday. Closed Sunday and Monday.
This article originally appeared on Cincinnati Enquirer: An old-school French restaurant came out swinging this year. And it's a hit
