Favorite regional foods have a way of moving beyond borders. Southern specialtieslike barbecueand shrimp and grits can be found across state lines and national boundaries. But there is one Eastern North Carolina signature that has a specific geographic location.
Cheese biscuits, in this case, aren’t just sliced biscuits with a slice of cheese. And these bakers don’t fold grated cheese into the dough. Instead, biscuit dough is wrapped about a hunk of cheese, creating a molten center when baked. Traditionally, it’s locally made hoop cheese with a red wax coating, but some prefer making them with cheddar. And often they are so big, they’re called cathead biscuits
They are almost ubiquitous at so many places from gas stations to diners where they
are popular but are still mostly unknown west of Interstate 95 -- despite some attention from publications like Southern Living and The Assembly. Even a bit farther south, the Wilmington area is home to some delicious biscuits, but this style is hard to find here. (Although try Casey’s Buffet on Fridays.)
If you’d like to go out in search of a biscuit that is both inexpensive and luxurious, with a gooey golden center, here’s where to start.
Roadside attractions
Maybe one of the best things about these cheese biscuits is the number of places you can find them once you’re in the right area. Stop into a roadside grill that has a basic menu and see if they’re on the menu. Or step into a gas station convenience store, the kind that also serves fried chicken and potato wedges. One afternoon at a Country Mart near Greenville, there was still a half-tray of rounded biscuits warm and waiting.
Gold stars
While you can find cheese biscuits in many places, there are some so good they are worth seeking out. In the annual Best of Pamlico Awards, Mom’s Grill in Washington has earned the best cheese biscuit designation year after year. They are all posted above the convenience store kitchen, where there are three small tables among the isles of drinks and snacks. Abrams BBQ & Seafood, which was founded in 1974 in Tarboro, makes the claim that they are home to the original cheese biscuit, and they sell plenty of them along with classic country cooking. And in Wilson, there’s Flo's Kitchen, a small drive-thru restaurant where huge wrapped cheese biscuits are one of the most popular items.
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For extra credit
The Cheddar Bo Biscuit at Bojangles is not quite the same as these hoop cheese biscuits, but it does have a cult following and is found in some of the same areas. These house-made biscuits are sliced with sharp cheddar melted inside. They’re no longer available at all locations, but some franchise owners are keeping them around.
Allison Ballard is the food and dining reporter at the StarNews. You can reach her at aballard@usatodayco.com.
This article originally appeared on Wilmington StarNews: The Eastern NC cheese biscuit remains a regional food secret
