The 'One and Done' Metallic Paint Job
The first and most common shortcut is grabbing a single pot of metallic paint and applying it everywhere. It seems logical—silver paint for steel armor. The problem is that real armor is never just one flat, shiny color. It has depth, shadows, and highlights
based on its shape and how it catches the light. Using a single metallic paint creates a uniform, shrink-wrapped sheen that screams plastic. Instead, think in layers. Start with a darker metallic base color. Then, apply a wash to deepen the recesses and create contrast. Finally, come back with your original, brighter metallic to pick out the raised edges and surfaces where light would naturally hit. This simple layering creates instant depth and makes the armor look like it has real weight and form.
The All-Over 'Liquid Talent' Wash
Washes are often called 'liquid talent' for their ability to create instant shadows. The shortcut is to slather a wash, usually a dark one, over the entire armored surface and let it dry. While this does find the recesses, it often leaves a splotchy, 'coffee-stain' effect on the flat panels. It can also create an overly glossy finish that reinforces the plastic look you're trying to avoid. The better approach is targeted washing, or 'pin washing.' Use a fine-tipped brush to apply the wash directly and only into the panel lines, rivets, and deep crevices. This gives you all the benefit of defining details without staining the main surfaces. It takes a little more time, but the control and resulting clean finish are well worth the effort.
Aggressive, Chunky Edge Highlighting
Once painters learn about edge highlighting, it's easy to overdo it. This shortcut involves drawing thick, bright lines along every single edge of the armor. The intent is to simulate light catching the edges, but the result often looks more like a cartoon or a neon sign. It breaks the illusion of realism because light doesn't hit every edge with the same intensity from all directions. A more believable technique is to be selective. Use a thinned-down highlight color and a very fine brush. Focus only on the most raised edges and corners that would logically catch a light source from above. Think about the 'zenithal' concept—where would the sun hit this piece of armor? Let some edges remain in shadow. This subtlety is what sells the effect and makes the armor look like real, sharpened steel rather than a highlighted drawing.
Relying on a Heavy Gloss Varnish
The final step that can ruin an otherwise great paint job is the varnish. Some painters use a single, heavy coat of gloss varnish over the entire model for protection, hoping it will also make metallics 'pop.' Unfortunately, it usually just makes the entire miniature look wet and plastic-like. Real armor isn't uniformly glossy; it might have polished surfaces, but the leather straps, cloth undergarments, and dirty recesses are not. The solution is selective varnishing. The best practice is to first seal the entire model with a matte varnish. This will eliminate unwanted shininess from washes and create a uniform, realistic finish for most surfaces. Then, if you want specific parts to gleam—like a polished helmet crest, a gemstone, or a wet, bloody blade—you can go back with a small brush and apply a spot of gloss or satin varnish just to those areas. This contrast between matte and gloss finishes is far more realistic and visually interesting.
