1. The Tissue-Thin Turtleneck Goes Under Everything
This isn't a new trick, but London designers reminded us why it’s the undisputed champion of layering. At shows from established houses to emerging names, the slim-fit turtleneck was the foundational piece. It appeared under crisp button-down shirts (left
unbuttoned to the sternum), chunky knit sweaters, and even slip dresses. The lesson? A fine-gauge merino wool or modal turtleneck in a neutral shade (black, navy, cream) adds a layer of warmth and a touch of beatnik sophistication without adding bulk. It’s the sartorial glue that holds a transitional outfit together, making your summer dresses wearable well into fall.
2. Master the 'Shirt as Jacket'
Forget saving your best button-downs for the office. Across London, oversized poplin shirts and sturdy corduroy or flannel versions were styled as lightweight jackets. Thrown over a simple white tee or a tank top, an unbuttoned shirt creates a casual, relaxed silhouette that’s perfect for those in-between temperatures. The key is in the material and fit. Look for a shirt that’s slightly oversized or has some structure, like heavy cotton or a wool blend. This isn't your flimsy work shirt; it's a deliberate outer layer that adds dimension and an effortless, 'I just threw this on' vibe that was perfected on the streets of Shoreditch.
3. Play with Texture, Not Just Color
While a pop of color is always fun, the most sophisticated layering seen at LFW came from mixing textures in the same color family. Think of a creamy cable-knit sweater over a silk camisole, paired with corduroy trousers and a wool coat. The look is monochrome, but it’s anything but boring. The interplay between the chunky knit, the fluid silk, the ribbed corduroy, and the smooth wool creates visual interest and depth. This is an easy rule to apply to your own closet: pull pieces in a similar shade—be it navy, gray, or beige—and focus on combining different materials. It’s a quiet luxury trick that always looks expensive.
4. Reconsider the Sweater Vest
The sweater vest has officially shaken off its geography teacher reputation. In London, it was a styling workhorse. Designers like Molly Goddard and Erdem proved its versatility, layering tailored vests over billowy dresses to cinch the waist and add structure. More casual, oversized knit vests were thrown over simple long-sleeved tees for a preppy-with-an-edge look. The modern way to wear it is to think of it as a sleeveless sweater. It adds core warmth without making your arms feel constricted inside a coat, making it one of the most genuinely practical layering pieces you can own.
5. Embrace Long-Over-Long Proportions
The old rule about balancing a long top with slim pants is officially on hold. One of the freshest silhouettes to emerge from London was the 'long-over-long' look. This meant long, fluid trench coats or dusters worn over midi-length dresses or wide-leg trousers that grazed the floor. It sounds tricky, but the key is to keep the fabrics drapey and the color palette cohesive. A long camel coat over a cream knit dress, for example, creates a single, elegant column of color that elongates your frame. It’s dramatic, comfortable, and supremely chic—a power move for when you want to feel both cozy and put-together.
