The Deceptive Allure of Softness
Our attraction to softness is instinctive. A plush, velvety material feels luxurious and comfortable, so we naturally assume that the softer the suede, the higher the quality. While top-tier suede is indeed soft, softness itself is not a reliable benchmark.
Low-quality suede can be manipulated to feel incredibly soft to the touch, often masking underlying issues with durability and structure. Manufacturers can use chemical treatments, conditioners, and heavy sanding to create an artificial plushness on inferior hides. This initial sensation of luxury can fade quickly, leaving you with a product that loses its shape, scuffs easily, or wears out far sooner than expected. Relying on softness alone is like judging a car by its paint job without checking the engine; it tells you something, but not the most important thing.
What Exactly Is Suede's 'Nap'?
So, if not softness, what should you focus on? The answer is the nap. The nap refers to the tiny, raised fibers on the surface of the suede that give it its signature fuzzy texture. When you run your hand over suede, you're feeling these fibers. Suede is made from the underside of an animal hide, which is naturally fibrous. To create the final product, tanneries sand or buff this inner layer to raise these fibers into a consistent, velvet-like finish. Unlike nubuck, which is made from the tougher outer grain-side of the hide and has a very short, fine nap, suede's nap is typically longer and more visible. The appearance and feel of this nap—its density, length, and uniformity—is where the true secrets of the suede's quality are hidden.
The Story the Nap Tells You
A high-quality suede nap tells a story of a superior raw material. When you examine a piece of suede, look for a nap that is dense, even, and fine. If you brush your hand against it, the color should shift slightly as the fibers move, but the texture should remain consistent across the entire surface. A rich, uniform nap indicates that the suede was likely made from a healthy, top-grade hide, often from a younger animal like a lamb or calf, whose skin has a tighter and more consistent fiber structure. On the other hand, a poor-quality suede will often have a 'shaggy' or patchy nap. You might see areas where the fibers are sparse, long, or coarse. This often means the suede was made from a 'split,' which is a lower-quality inner layer of a thicker hide (like cowhide) that has been split off from the more desirable top-grain layer. These splits have a looser fiber structure, resulting in a less durable and less aesthetically pleasing nap.
Putting It All Together on Your Next Purchase
When you're next considering a suede jacket, pair of shoes, or bag, ignore the initial impulse to be seduced by softness alone. Instead, become a nap detective. Run your hand across the surface and observe. Is the nap dense and consistent, with a uniform velvety feel everywhere? Or are there thin patches and shaggy, uneven fibers? Gently scratch a small, inconspicuous area with your nail. High-quality suede with a tight fiber structure will resist shedding, while a lower-grade split might shed fibers easily. Also, look at the color consistency; blotchy or uneven coloring can be a sign of a hide that absorbed dye poorly due to an inconsistent nap. Only after you’ve assessed the nap should you consider the softness. True quality is when that luxurious softness is a direct result of a fine, dense nap, not a clever manufacturing shortcut.
