1. Sacai
If Watanabe is the master of reconstruction, Sacai’s Chitose Abe is the queen of hybridization. Also an alum of the Comme des Garçons family where she worked as a pattern cutter, Abe founded Sacai in 1999 with a focus on splicing together two familiar
garments to create a surprising and elegant whole. Think of a classic wool sweater that suddenly blossoms into the back of a pleated blouse, or a bomber jacket fused with the body of a tailored blazer. Where Watanabe often dissects a single garment archetype—workwear, denim, military—Abe brings two different worlds into a beautiful collision. For the Watanabe fan who loves seeing functional clothing turned into wearable art, Sacai offers a similarly cerebral but distinctly fluid and often more romantic take on conceptual fashion.
2. Undercover
Founded by Jun Takahashi, Undercover is often described as the essence of Japanese cool, blending punk rebellion with high-fashion craftsmanship. Like Watanabe, Takahashi is a graduate of the legendary Bunka Fashion College in Tokyo and was famously championed by Rei Kawakubo. But while Watanabe’s work often maintains a link to the original garment's function, Takahashi’s creations are filtered through a lens of pop culture, music, and surrealism. His motto, “We Make Noise, Not Clothes,” perfectly captures the brand's ethos. You’ll find the same love for unexpected materials and reconstructed classics, but with a darker, more graphic, and overtly rebellious spirit. If you appreciate the intellectual rigor of Watanabe but have a penchant for punk rock and cinematic storytelling, Undercover is your next obsession.
3. Kolor
Designer Junichi Abe has a direct connection to Watanabe, having worked on his team at Comme des Garçons before launching Kolor in 2004. This shared history is evident in Kolor’s meticulous attention to detail and fabrication. However, Abe’s approach is often softer and more subtle. Kolor excels at taking a classic menswear piece—a tailored blazer, a simple cardigan, a pair of trousers—and injecting it with an off-kilter detail. This might be an unexpected panel of contrasting fabric, a slightly askew pocket, or a flash of vibrant color on an otherwise muted garment. It's less about complete deconstruction and more about thoughtful disruption. For the Watanabe admirer who is drawn to exquisite craftsmanship and perfectly executed details, Kolor offers a vision that is equally inventive but with a quieter, more eccentric charm.
4. Craig Green
Moving beyond Japan, London’s Craig Green shares Watanabe’s deep fascination with utility, uniform, and workwear. Green has become a defining voice in modern menswear by transforming functional garments into pieces of profound emotional and sculptural power. His signature quilted worker jackets, for example, elevate a humble staple into something akin to protective armor or monastic robes. Like Watanabe, Green explores themes of functionality and form, but his work often carries a spiritual or deeply emotional undercurrent. He uses modular construction, intricate lacing, and sculptural silhouettes to challenge traditional ideas of masculinity. If you're drawn to Watanabe's masterful reinterpretations of workwear and military gear, Craig Green offers a path forward that is conceptual, deeply human, and visually breathtaking.
