The Goal: A Glow That Lasts and Looks Real
Red carpet makeup has two main jobs: look flawless for hours under harsh lights and on high-definition cameras, and still look like real skin. When it comes to highlighter, a single, heavy layer of powder can look chalky or settle into fine lines. [20]
Conversely, a cream or liquid alone might fade or slide, especially during a long event. [15] By layering different formulas, makeup artists create a multi-dimensional glow that has staying power and mimics the way light naturally hits the skin, creating depth and radiance from every angle. [2] It’s a method sometimes called the “sandwich technique,” designed to build, amplify, and lock in the shine. [3]
Layer One: Cream for a Lit-From-Within Base
The first step in this pro technique is almost always a cream product. A cream highlighter, often in a stick or pot, is applied after foundation but before any powder. [15] Its primary purpose is to create a seamless, dewy base that looks like it’s part of the skin. [20] Because cream formulas melt into the skin, they provide a natural-looking luminosity that doesn’t sit on the surface. [17] This initial layer acts as a 'grip' for the products to come, providing a slightly tacky foundation that helps subsequent layers adhere better and last longer. [3, 19] Makeup artists apply this to the high points of the face: the tops of the cheekbones, brow bone, and the bridge of the nose. [5]
Layer Two: Liquid for a Targeted Pop of Light
Next comes the liquid highlighter. While it can sometimes be used as the base layer, many pros use it to build upon the cream. [6] Liquid formulas often contain highly concentrated, fine shimmer particles that provide a more intense, reflective shine than most creams. [18] Artists will typically dot and blend a small amount of liquid highlighter onto the very highest points of the areas they just covered with cream. [2] This adds a targeted pop of brightness and begins to build the multi-dimensional effect. Using a damp beauty sponge or fingertips helps meld the liquid seamlessly with the cream base and foundation, preventing any harsh lines. [1]
Layer Three: Powder to Set and Amplify
The final step is a light dusting of powder highlighter. This is the key to both longevity and final impact. Applying powder over the cream and liquid layers serves two functions. First, it sets the wet products, ensuring the glow won’t slide or fade under hot lights or over a long night. [4, 15] Second, it amplifies the shine. The powder adheres to the still-tacky base, instantly boosting the vibrancy and creating a high-impact, reflective finish that catches the camera flashes perfectly. [3, 1] For this step, artists typically use a fluffy, tapered brush to sweep the powder lightly over the same areas, locking everything in place for a red carpet-ready finish. [1]
Making It Work Off the Red Carpet
While this three-part technique is perfect for maximum glam, it can easily be adapted for everyday wear. The key is to choose just two layers and apply them with a lighter hand. For a natural, daytime glow, start with a cream or liquid highlighter blended well into the skin, then apply a very sheer sweep of a finely milled powder highlight just on the highest points of the cheekbones. [24] You can also mix a few drops of liquid illuminator directly into your foundation or moisturizer for a subtle, all-over radiance. [12, 18] This gives you the dimensional, long-lasting benefits of layering without the full intensity of a red-carpet look.
