The Reign of the Skinny Suit
For the better part of a decade, men’s formalwear on the red carpet followed a single, restrictive rule: tighter is better. Cast your mind back to the AMAs of the early 2010s. The prevailing look was the skinny suit, a descendant of Hedi Slimane’s revolutionary work at Dior Homme in the early 2000s. It was the uniform of indie rock revivalists and boy bands alike. Think razor-sharp, painfully narrow lapels, trousers so tight they might inhibit circulation, and jackets cut high and close to the body. This was tailoring as compression wear. It projected a very specific, youthful, rock-and-roll energy. It was the look of Justin Timberlake in his 'Suit & Tie' era, the Jonas Brothers’ first comeback, and countless other artists aiming for a clean,
modern, and decidedly European vibe. The silhouette was unforgiving, but for a long time, it was the only serious option.
Enter: The Big Loosen-Up
Then, slowly and now all at once, the silhouette began to breathe. The new uniform seen on AMA attendees from Machine Gun Kelly to Jack Harlow is one of ease and volume. This isn’t your dad’s boxy, ill-fitting suit from the ‘90s. This is “relaxed tailoring,” a deliberate and artful embrace of space. We’re seeing wider, more confident peak lapels that recall the glamour of the ‘70s and ‘80s. Trousers are flowing, pooling gracefully over sneakers or loafers. Shoulders are often softer and less structured, and fabrics have more life and movement. Double-breasted cuts, once considered stuffy, are back with a vengeance, but worn with an open, casual swagger. It’s a look that prioritizes comfort without sacrificing an ounce of style. In fact, it requires more confidence to pull off; it’s not about the suit wearing the man, but the man inhabiting the suit with a sense of nonchalant cool.
The Cultural Drivers Behind the Shift
So, why the sudden embrace of all this fabric? The shift isn't happening in a vacuum. The post-pandemic world has fundamentally changed our relationship with clothing. After two years of sweatpants, the idea of squeezing back into restrictive formalwear feels archaic. Comfort is now the ultimate luxury, and designers have responded by infusing formal pieces with the ease of loungewear. Furthermore, the lines of traditional masculinity in fashion are blurring faster than ever. Artists like Harry Styles and Bad Bunny have championed a more fluid, expressive, and playful approach to style. The relaxed suit fits perfectly into this new paradigm. It can be soft, romantic, powerful, or androgynous, depending on the styling. It’s less of a rigid uniform and more of a versatile canvas for personal expression, which is what modern pop stardom is all about.
What It Means for the Everyman
While you might not be walking a red carpet anytime soon, the trends that debut at events like the AMAs have a powerful trickle-down effect. What starts with a pop star in a custom designer suit eventually influences what you see at Zara, J.Crew, and your local department store. The move toward relaxed tailoring is a green light for men everywhere to prioritize comfort and personal fit. It’s an invitation to move beyond the one-size-fits-all ideal of the skinny suit and find silhouettes that actually work for your body and lifestyle. It signals a return to a more classic, durable idea of style, where quality fabric and a good drape matter more than chasing a fleeting, restrictive trend. The biggest takeaway from the AMA red carpet isn't a specific brand or color—it's permission to finally exhale.
