A House in Turmoil
To say Moschino has been on a rollercoaster is an understatement. The brand has been in a state of flux since the celebrated departure of Jeremy Scott, who, for a decade, defined the label with his high-camp, pop-culture-fueled extravaganzas. His exit
was followed by a period of immense instability. Davide Renne, appointed as his successor, tragically passed away just days into his new role in late 2023. Adrian Appiolaza then stepped in, with a tenure that lasted just a couple of seasons before his sudden departure in June 2026. This rapid succession of creative leads has left the iconic Italian house in desperate need of a clear, confident, and lasting new direction.
Enter the New Guard
So, who are the designers tasked with this monumental challenge? Loris Messina and Simone Rizzo are the founders of Sunnei, a Milan-based brand they built into a cult favorite known for its clever, conceptual, and community-focused approach to fashion. Neither came from a traditional design school background, yet they cultivated a reputation for being among Milan's most irreverent talents. Their shows were less about simple catwalks and more like performance art; they once had models crowd-surf, asked the audience to score looks with paddles, and staged their final exit from their own brand as a mock Christie's auction. Their appointment to Moschino was a surprise, signaling a potential shift from overt, cartoonish spectacle to a more cerebral and witty form of commentary.
Navigating a Dual Legacy
Messina and Rizzo are stepping into a house with two powerful, and somewhat conflicting, legacies. First is the spirit of the founder, Franco Moschino, who launched the brand as a satirical critique of the fashion industry itself, using surrealism and irony to challenge convention. Then there is the long shadow of Jeremy Scott, who amplified that irony into a global commercial language, with collections themed around Barbie, McDonald's, and game shows that became instant pop culture phenomena. The central question is how the new duo will navigate these histories. In statements, they've expressed deep admiration for Franco Moschino's radical point of view, suggesting they aim to honor the brand's original critical spirit while projecting it into a contemporary context.
The Stakes of the Debut
This debut isn't just an artistic exercise; it's a critical business move. Moschino's parent company, Aeffe, has faced significant financial headwinds, admitting to insolvency earlier this year after a round of layoffs in late 2025. There is immense pressure on Messina and Rizzo to deliver a collection that is not only critically acclaimed but also commercially viable. The industry is watching to see if their more understated and conceptual humor can translate to the bold, logo-driven world of a major luxury house. Can they redefine Moschino's signature playfulness for a new era, moving beyond the overt camp of the recent past without losing the brand's unique and joyful spark? The show today is expected to provide the answer.
