A Renewed Focus on Structure
Forget the shapeless, oversized loungewear that dominated closets for the past few years. London's runways for Spring/Summer 2027 are reintroducing structure in a big way. This isn't about stiff, restrictive clothing, but rather intentional shapes that create
a strong silhouette. We're seeing a return to power dressing with strong shoulders, reminiscent of the 1980s but with a modern, less theatrical feel. Designers are also emphasizing the waist, using belts and tailored construction to give shape to everything from blazers to dresses. The key takeaway is a move toward more architectural and defined forms. This might mean a jacket with a nipped-in waist or a dress with a sculptural, structured skirt. It signals a collective desire to feel more put-together and powerful in our daily lives.
The Rise of the Exaggerated Hip
One of the most dramatic proportional shifts seen on the London runways is the new emphasis on the hip. Designers like Erdem and Simone Rocha showcased silhouettes that flare out, creating curves that are both romantic and architectural. This was achieved through various means, from crinoline-style structures and panniers to puffball skirts and clever draping. After seasons focused on other parts of the body, this downward shift in focus creates an entirely new line. It’s a playful and poetic way to think about shape. For your own wardrobe, this doesn't mean you need to adopt a historical costume. Instead, think about A-line skirts, peplum tops, or even wide-leg trousers that create a fuller shape on your lower half, offering a fresh contrast to the more fitted tops that are also trending.
Volume Becomes Intentional
While extreme volume has been a trend for a while, the latest collections show a more considered approach. Oversized pieces are still present, but they are more intentionally styled. Think of a voluminous bomber jacket paired with sleek trousers, or a flowing, oversized shirt that is strategically unbuttoned to create a more relaxed, airy silhouette. The focus is on the interplay between large and small, tight and loose. It’s about creating balance. For instance, pairing a wide-leg pant with a more defined top can create a completely different look than an oversized head-to-toe ensemble. This trend invites you to experiment with contrasting proportions—a voluminous sleeve on an otherwise simple top, for example—to add a touch of modern drama without being overwhelmed by fabric.
How to Play With Proportions at Home
You don't need a new wardrobe to embrace these shifts. The best way to start is by shopping your own closet. Take out a simple, shapeless dress and try belting it at different points on your waist—or even under the bust—to see how it changes the entire look. Experiment with tucking. A chunky knit sweater tucked into a slim pencil skirt creates a fantastic proportional contrast. Similarly, try pairing a voluminous wide-leg trouser with your most fitted top. Pay attention to your hemlines and necklines as well. A prominent, statement collar or a boatneck can completely reframe a simple top or dress, drawing the eye upward and altering the garment's perceived proportions. The goal isn't to perfectly replicate runway looks, but to use them as inspiration to see your own clothes in a new light.
