The Shoe of the Moment
The footwear in question is the Alaïa mesh ballet flat. First introduced in 2022, this shoe has transcended trend cycles to become a staple for the art and fashion crowd. It’s a deceptively simple design: a classic, soft-soled flat, but with an upper
made of a fishnet-like mesh, often trimmed with leather. It’s delicate, slightly strange, and completely see-through, revealing the foot in a way that feels both vulnerable and confident. This year at Frieze London, it was practically a uniform, spotted peeking out from under wide-leg trousers and paired with minimalist dresses. Its popularity lies in its hybrid nature; it's a sandal and a flat, offering breathability while still feeling structured and polished. The design was inspired by traditional Japanese footwear, giving it a global, cultured feel that resonates with the art fair audience.
Deconstructing the 'Frieze Look'
So, what exactly is a 'Frieze look'? It's a specific brand of wealthy, intellectual chic. Think less about overt logos and more about interesting silhouettes and luxurious, tactile fabrics. The goal is to look like you not only have the money to buy the art but also the intellect to 'get' it. This translates to an outfit that is considered but not ostentatious. Common elements include oversized blazers, flowing trench coats, monochromatic color palettes, and trousers with a slightly unconventional cut. It’s a performance of effortless sophistication. The attendees are on display just as much as the art, and their clothing choices signal a fluency in the codes of contemporary culture. The overall effect is one of curated nonchalance—an outfit that looks thrown together, but every piece has been meticulously chosen.
A Perfect, Contradictory Match
The Alaïa flat is the perfect anchor for this aesthetic because it’s a study in contradictions. The mesh is industrial and almost utilitarian, yet the shoe's form is delicate and feminine. It’s a flat, suggesting comfort and practicality for walking the massive fair, yet its gossamer construction makes it feel incredibly luxurious and impractical for a rainy London day. It’s expensive, signaling status, but in a way that’s much quieter than a logo-heavy sneaker or a sky-high heel. This 'if you know, you know' quality is central to its appeal. The shoe mirrors the tension within the art world itself: the push and pull between raw creativity and massive commercial value, between the conceptual and the material. Wearing it shows you understand this dynamic. It's a shoe that doesn't scream for attention but rewards a closer look—much like a good piece of contemporary art.
More Than Just a Shoe
Ultimately, the power of this one flat is about what it communicates. In the context of an art fair, fashion becomes a tool for identity projection and social signaling. Choosing the Alaïa mesh flat is not just a style choice; it’s a cultural one. It signals that you are part of a specific tribe that values design, craftsmanship, and a certain brand of understated cool. It shows you're in on the conversation without having to say a word. In a world saturated with loud, attention-grabbing trends, the quiet confidence of this weird little shoe speaks volumes. It completes the Frieze look because it embodies the same principles as the art being sold: it's thoughtful, it’s novel, and it’s meant for an audience that appreciates the nuances.
