1. The Chainmail Dress
This is the design that started it all. When Paco Rabanne debuted his 'Twelve Unwearable Dresses in Contemporary Materials' in 1966, the world was shocked. Instead of silk and chiffon, he used metal plates
and rings, essentially creating wearable, liquid-like armor. These chainmail dresses were less sewn and more engineered, earning him the nickname 'metallurgist' from a skeptical Coco Chanel. Worn by icons like Françoise Hardy, the chainmail dress wasn't just a garment; it was a statement about a new, liberated femininity and the dawn of the Space Age. Finding an original 1960s piece is the holy grail for collectors, a true piece of fashion history that feels just as radical today.
2. The Rhodoid Disc Dress
Alongside metal, Rabanne’s other great obsession was plastic. The Rhodoid disc dress is perhaps his most playful and visually striking experiment. Made from colorful plastic or iridescent vinyl discs linked together by small metal rings, these dresses were kinetic sculptures. They captured the light and moved with the wearer, creating a dazzling, otherworldly effect. Famously, Rabanne sold some of these as 'Do It Yourself' kits, packaged in a small suitcase, allowing the wearer to construct her own futuristic couture. These pieces epitomize the pop-art optimism of the 60s and the idea that fashion could be both disposable and brilliant.
3. The 'Le 1969' Bag
While a metal dress might be a commitment, the 'Le 1969' bag is the most accessible piece of Rabanne's genius. Composed of his signature metal or plastic paillettes, this shoulder bag became one of the first true 'It' bags. Its genius lies in its construction; the linked discs create a surprisingly soft and flexible form from rigid materials. It was an instant hit, seen on the arms of style-setters like Brigitte Bardot and Françoise Hardy. The house has reissued the bag many times, but an original 1960s or 70s version has a specific weight and patina that makes it a special find, connecting you directly to the era of its revolutionary birth.
4. The Molded Plastron Top
If the chainmail dress was armor, the molded plastron was its more architectural cousin. These pieces were often designed as breastplates or full bodices, crafted from molded plastic to create a sculptural, anatomical shell. They were a key part of the costumes for the 1968 sci-fi classic 'Barbarella,' where Jane Fonda wore them to define her futuristic warrior character. These pieces showcase Rabanne’s training as an architect, as they are as much about structure and form as they are about fashion. A vintage plastron is a bold and powerful artifact, representing Rabanne’s vision of the body as a framework for avant-garde art.
5. The Paper Dress
In his quest for new materials, Rabanne even experimented with the ephemeral: paper. Part of his 'unwearable' collection, Rabanne created dresses from paper, fastened with wire and glue. While seemingly impractical, these garments were a radical commentary on the burgeoning consumer culture of the 1960s. They embodied the idea of disposable fashion, meant to be worn once or twice and then discarded. Though few have survived due to their delicate nature, a vintage paper Rabanne piece is an incredibly rare find. It represents a conceptual high point in fashion history, questioning the very idea of permanence in clothing.
6. The Gold and Diamond Dress
This isn't just a dress; it's a legend. In 1968, Rabanne created what was then called the most expensive dress in the world for singer Françoise Hardy. Made of thousands of linked gold plates and studded with an estimated 300 carats of diamonds, the minidress was a breathtaking piece of wearable jewelry. It reportedly weighed nearly 20 pounds and required bodyguards to protect it. While you're unlikely to find the original for sale, the dress solidified Rabanne's status as a master of opulence and audacity. It demonstrated that his industrial techniques could be applied to the most luxurious materials imaginable, blending futurism with high jewelry in a way no one had ever seen before.
