The Canvas: Prep is Paramount
According to nearly every professional makeup artist, a red-carpet look begins with intensive skin prep, sometimes starting 30 minutes or more before any makeup is even considered. The goal is to create a hydrated, smooth, and plump canvas. This often
involves a multi-step process including cleansing, exfoliation to remove any dry patches that could make makeup look blotchy, and deep hydration. Artists frequently use hydrating serums, sheet masks, and even high-tech tools like microcurrent devices to tone and lift the face. Celebrity makeup artist Jamie Greenberg, who has prepped stars like Kaley Cuoco, emphasizes that great makeup starts with great skincare prep. Under-eye patches are another popular trick to de-puff and brighten the delicate eye area before concealer is applied.
The Enemy: Avoiding SPF Flashback
One of the biggest challenges for photographers and makeup artists on the red carpet is “flashback.” This is the ghostly white cast that can appear in photos when makeup with certain ingredients reflects the camera's flash too intensely. The primary culprits are foundations and powders containing physical sunscreens like zinc oxide and titanium dioxide. While essential for daytime, these ingredients are a major liability under flash photography. For evening events like the Emmys, artists meticulously select foundations that are free of physical SPF. Any good makeup artist will test their products with a flash photo before their client ever leaves the chair to ensure the finish is seamless both in person and on camera.
The Base: More Than Just Foundation
The secret to a base that looks like real skin, only better, is strategic layering and product selection. Many artists start with a primer to smooth the skin's texture, minimize pores, and give the makeup something to grip onto for long-lasting wear. When it comes to foundation, the modern approach is often “less is more,” applying it in thin, buildable layers only where needed rather than as a uniform mask. A satin or demi-matte finish is often preferred over anything too dewy, which can look oily in photos, or too flat, which can look lifeless. Some artists even use multiple shades of foundation to perfectly match the different tones of the face and neck, ensuring a natural dimension that harsh lighting can otherwise erase.
The Set: The Strategic Use of Powder
Powder is a crucial tool, but it's a double-edged sword. Too much can lead to a cakey appearance and amplify texture under the camera's unforgiving lens. Artists use finely milled, translucent setting powders sparingly, focusing on the T-zone and other areas prone to shine. Instead of heavily “baking” all over, which can sometimes create its own flashback issues if not done correctly, the application is often a light pressing motion with a brush or puff. This sets the makeup and controls shine without killing the skin's natural glow. For clients of color, it's especially important to use a powder with the correct undertone to avoid an ashy look in photos.
The Dimension: Sculpting for the Flash
Flash photography has a tendency to flatten the face, washing out its natural contours. To counteract this, makeup artists have to subtly enhance the face's structure with blush, bronzer, and highlighter. However, what looks good in person can look like harsh stripes in a photo. The key is meticulous blending. Many artists favor cream products for blush and contour, as they melt into the skin for a more natural finish and can be layered under powders for longevity. When it comes to highlighter, placement is everything. Artists apply it sparingly to the high points of the face, like the tops of the cheekbones, to catch the light beautifully without creating a sweaty or greasy appearance. The goal is a glow that appears to come from within, not from a product sitting on top of the skin.
