From Clean-Up to Canvas
The latest menswear collections in Milan and Paris showcased a dramatic pivot in grooming. Historically, the goal for male models was to look invisibly polished—a “no-makeup” makeup look that suggested health and vitality. The Spring/Summer 2027 runways,
however, treated the face and hair as a canvas for artistry. At shows like Hermès and Louis Vuitton, models sported a noticeable flush of warm blush across the cheeks, a look designed to mimic the natural effect of heat and make the face appear more alive. Elsewhere, designers played with more overt color; Setchu's Milan show featured models with bold green lipstick and liberally applied eyeshadow. This move from subtle enhancement to deliberate expression marks a significant change in how fashion houses are approaching the male aesthetic.
The Softer Side of Hair
The shift wasn't limited to makeup. Hair, long dominated by disciplined, tight fades and controlled styling, is embracing a softer, more romantic mood. At Tod's and AMI, curls were grown out and settled naturally around the face, a departure from the sharp, controlled looks of past seasons. Some designers, like Yohji Yamamoto, leaned into a nonchalant, bedhead aesthetic that complemented loose, relaxed clothing. Even shorter styles felt different, with an emphasis on texture and movement over rigidity. The return of slick, wet-look hair at Prada and Giorgio Armani brought a '90s vibe, but overall, the dominant trend was hair that felt personal and less forced. Emporio Armani even introduced metallic hair jewelry, turning hair into a focal point for adornment.
A Sign of Shifting Masculinity
So, why is this happening now? The looks on the runway are a reflection of a much broader cultural conversation about masculinity. For years, the lines have been blurring, driven largely by Gen Z and Millennial consumers who embrace a more fluid approach to self-expression. A 2026 survey found that 68% of men in these demographics care more about their appearance now than they did five years ago. This isn't just vanity; it's a desire for authenticity and the freedom to experiment. Luxury brands like Chanel, which launched a men's makeup line back in 2018, and celebrity-led brands have helped normalize grooming and cosmetics for a male audience. The runway, in essence, is catching up to a change that has been building on social media and in mainstream culture for some time.
Beyond the Runway
While green lipstick might not become a daily staple for the average guy, the spirit of the trend is already trickling down. The booming men's grooming market shows a clear shift from basic hygiene to dedicated skincare and personalized routines. Men are increasingly using more than just '2-in-1' products, with many now having multi-step grooming rituals. The focus on polished, intentional looks—whether it's a precisely shaped beard or a haircut that works with natural texture—is becoming mainstream. The runway’s bold statements act as a permission slip, encouraging men to see grooming not as a chore, but as a valid and powerful form of self-expression. The message is less about copying a specific look and more about embracing the freedom to define one's own style.
