Understanding the Contenders
At its core, highlighter is a makeup product designed to reflect light, creating dimension and a healthy radiance on the high points of your face. But not all glows are created equal, especially when you step outside. The two main formulas you'll encounter
are powders and balms (which include creams and sticks). Powder highlighters are composed of finely milled pigments, often with shimmer or pearl particles, pressed into a solid cake. Balm, cream, or stick highlighters, on the other hand, have an emollient base—think butters and oils—that delivers a dewy, skin-like finish. The fundamental difference lies in how they achieve their shine: powders offer a reflective sparkle that sits on the skin, while balms create a wet-looking sheen that appears to be part of your skin itself.
The Case for Powder: Ethereal Shimmer
Powder highlighters are the classic choice for a reason. They offer incredible control and buildable intensity, from a subtle dusting of light to a high-impact, metallic finish. For those with oily or combination skin, powders are often a holy grail; their texture can help manage excess shine while still delivering luminosity. In direct sun, a finely milled powder without large glitter particles can create a beautiful, ethereal effect. The key is to find one that feels almost like a gel or has hydrating ingredients, which helps it meld with the skin rather than sitting on top like a chalky stripe. The downside? A heavy hand or a formula with too much glitter can look obviously like makeup in bright, natural light, sometimes emphasizing skin texture.
The Case for Balm: A Dewy, 'Glass Skin' Sheen
Balm and cream highlighters are the champions of the “lit-from-within” look. Their hydrating, emollient-rich formulas are designed to melt into the skin, creating a seamless, dewy finish that mimics healthy, well-hydrated skin. For those with dry or mature skin, these formulas are often more flattering as they don't settle into fine lines. In direct sunlight, a sheer highlighting balm provides the most natural effect, giving your skin a glossy, juicy look without any tell-tale sparkle. The trade-off is longevity. Creamy products can sometimes feel sticky, break down makeup underneath, or fade more quickly, especially in heat and humidity.
The Sunlight Verdict: Which Is Best?
For direct sun, the best choice depends entirely on your desired finish and skin type. If you want a truly believable, 'is it sweat or is it highlighter?' kind of glow, a balm is your winner. Its sheer, dewy effect looks like an extension of your skin. This is the choice for the no-makeup-makeup look on a beach day. However, if you need longevity and a more controlled, polished radiance that will last through a sunny afternoon event, a high-quality powder is superior. It will stay put longer and offers a more refined, airbrushed shimmer. For those with oily skin, powder is almost always the safer bet in the sun to avoid looking overly greasy.
Application Is Everything
Regardless of the formula, technique is crucial for a sun-friendly glow. Always apply highlighter as one of the last steps in your routine. For balms and creams, warm the product on your fingers and gently tap it onto the high points of the face—cheekbones, brow bones, and the bridge of the nose. This melts the product into the skin for a seamless finish. For powders, use a small, fluffy brush and apply sparingly, building up as needed. A pro tip for extra dimension is to layer: apply a cream highlighter first, then set it with a tiny amount of a matching powder just on the very highest point. This gives you the dewy base of a balm with the staying power and pop of a powder.
