The New Traditionalist
The knife-pleat skirt is the bedrock of tennis fashion, and its purest form was on full display. We saw players embracing crisp, high-waisted skirts with traditional, wide pleats that offered beautiful movement during play. This look isn't about reinventing
the wheel; it's about perfecting it. Paired with a simple, fitted tank, it’s a nod to the sport's elegant past while feeling entirely current. The beauty is in the simplicity and the sharp, uniform lines that create a graceful, almost dancer-like silhouette with every serve and volley. This is the tennis skirt in its final form—timeless, elegant, and unapologetically classic.
The Avant-Garde Pleat
This year, designers took the classic pleat and asked, 'what if we made it art?' Naomi Osaka's custom Nike kit, for instance, featured a micro-pleated hem inspired by Japanese kirigami paper-cutting. These weren't your standard pleats; they were asymmetrical, architectural, and integrated with other textures. Wilson also created a custom 'Marta' dress for Marta Kostyuk which included technical lace detailing alongside pleated elements. This approach turns the skirt into a statement piece, proving that the all-white rule doesn't limit creativity. It's a look for players who are as much fashion icons as they are athletes, blending high-performance needs with high-fashion sensibilities.
The Miu Miu Micro-Pleat
Miu Miu's influence has officially reached Centre Court, with Coco Gauff sporting looks from her collaboration with the brand and New Balance. This take on the pleated skirt is shorter, flirtier, and brings a youthful, fashion-forward energy. The pleats are smaller, almost like accordion folds, creating a dense texture that bounces and moves with a distinctively modern flair. Gauff paired her pleated skirt with a matching halter-top, turning the court into a runway. It’s a look that says 'I’m here to win, but I'm also deeply aware of the season's biggest trends.' It’s preppy, it’s powerful, and it’s pure fun.
The Separates Illusion
A major trend, seen both on court and in the stands, is the illusion of separates. Tennis dresses are being designed to look like a top-and-skirt combo, often incorporating a pleated bottom. This creates a defined waist and a more structured silhouette than a standard dress. It offers the cohesive look of a single piece with the visual interest of a well-coordinated outfit. Spectators like Emma Thynn, the Marchioness of Bath, wore a self-portrait dress with a double-breasted bodice that flowed into a pleated skirt, creating the appearance of two pieces. It’s a sophisticated and clever way to play with form while adhering to the smart-casual courtside dress code.
The Deconstructed Pleat
Beyond the classic all-around pleat, we're seeing deconstructed and partial pleating. Think skirts with a flat front panel and pleated sides, or asymmetrical designs where pleats are used as a decorative accent on one side. This modern interpretation offers a more streamlined look from the front while still providing the classic movement and texture of a traditional tennis skirt. It’s a hybrid style that feels both athletic and chic, perfect for the player who wants the best of both worlds. This less-is-more approach to pleating provides a subtle update to the silhouette, making it feel fresh and new without losing its essential character.
