The Smoked-Out Under-Eye
Forget heavy-duty concealers designed to erase any sign of a late night. At shows like Tolu Coker, makeup artists leaned into the opposite, intentionally smoking out the under-eye area. The goal wasn't to look exhausted, but to create a soft, lived-in
feel that felt more emotionally expressive than a perfectly corrected face. By using diffused neutral tones and muted greys, the look replaced the artificial brightness of concealer with a shadowy, romantic softness. It’s a move away from hiding so-called flaws and instead reframing them as a key part of an edgy, modern aesthetic.
Artfully Undone 'Bedhead' Hair
Across multiple runways, including Di Petsa and Simone Rocha, the hairbrush seemed to be an afterthought. Models sported what could only be described as elevated bedhead, with stylists embracing natural frizz, bumps, and bends. At Erdem, hairstylist Eugene Souleiman even made a feature of flyaways, letting wispy strands frame the face on updos and long styles alike. This trend celebrates hair that has character and movement, signaling a shift away from overly polished styling. It’s not about neglecting your hair, but about achieving a texture that feels authentic and effortlessly cool, as if you just walked through the windy moors in a Brontë novel.
The 'Misty,' Soft-Focus Eyeshadow
Sharp cut creases and precise graphic liner took a backseat to a softer, more ethereal eye look. Dubbed the "misty eye," this trend involves washing a single, sheer color from the lash line to the brow bone. At shows like Connor Ives, makeup teams used dusky pinks and mauves to create a romantic, smoky finish that was blended for a diffused, wearable feel. The key is the lack of precision; a slightly smudged, imperfect edge is the entire point, suggesting a look that's been lived in rather than freshly applied. It rejects the high-effort, multi-product eye in favor of something sophisticated and quietly confident.
Grungy, Lived-In Eyeliner
The grunge revival continues, but with a more refined twist. Instead of the pristine, razor-sharp wings of past seasons, London designers opted for thick, inky-black liner that was slightly smudged and imperfect. At Raw Mango and Paul Costelloe, models wore heavy black rims around the eyes that felt intense and dramatic. The look nods to '90s rebellion but feels updated for today. The application is deliberately imperfect, giving the impression that the liner has been on for hours. It’s a statement that prioritizes mood and attitude over technical perfection, proving that sometimes, a little messiness is far more interesting.
Hyper-Flushed 'Wind-Burnt' Cheeks
Moving away from the sculpted, strategic blush of contouring culture, designers like Simone Rocha embraced a more natural, almost weather-beaten flush. Makeup artist Thomas de Kluyner created hyper-flushed, "wind-burnt" cheeks that spread across the face with a ruddy, organic glow. Elsewhere, at shows like Annie's Ibiza, a peachy-pink wash was draped high across the cheekbones and temples, blending into the eyeshadow for a seamless, all-over warmth. This trend mimics the flush you get from a brisk walk outside, favoring a healthy, vital look over the carefully placed powder of years past.
