So, What Exactly Is a Johnny Collar?
The defining feature of a Johnny collar is what it lacks: buttons and a placket. Unlike the traditional tennis shirt, which has a two or three-button placket descending from the collar, the Johnny collar offers an open, uninterrupted V-neck. It features
a flat, spread collar, but the absence of a buttoning structure creates a cleaner, more minimalist and relaxed look. Think of it as a hybrid—it has the collar of a polo but the effortless, open neckline of a V-neck tee. This simple design tweak fundamentally changes the shirt's character from structured sportswear to something more akin to casual resort wear.
A Nod to Mid-Century Cool
The Johnny collar isn't a new invention; it's a revival. The style was popularized in the mid-20th century, becoming a staple of men's leisurewear in the 1950s and '60s. It was the kind of shirt you'd see on vacationers, golfers, and celebrities of the era, exuding a sense of relaxed, confident cool. Its buttonless design was perfect for warm climates, offering better airflow and a laid-back vibe. While the original polo shirt, as developed by René Lacoste, was born from a desire for on-court comfort, the Johnny collar's heritage is rooted more in off-duty style, which makes its return to the court today all the more interesting. It brings a touch of retro, weekend-ready sensibility to a sport historically defined by more formal athletic attire.
The On-Court Resurgence
In recent years, tennis fashion has increasingly blurred the lines between performance apparel and everyday lifestyle wear. This "tenniscore" trend has seen court staples like pleated skirts and polos integrated into mainstream fashion. The Johnny collar is at the forefront of this movement for menswear. Brands are embracing buttonless and zip-polo designs to give the traditional shirt a modern, streamlined appearance. While many players still opt for traditional polos or crew necks, the re-emergence of this collar style on the pro tour signals a deliberate style choice. It's a move away from the purely functional and a step toward a more considered, fashion-forward aesthetic that looks just as good during a match as it does for post-match activities.
How It Changes the Entire Vibe
A simple collar change has a surprisingly powerful effect on the overall look. A traditional polo, with its buttoned placket, carries a certain formality. It's the uniform of choice for everything from golf to business-casual Fridays. The Johnny collar, by contrast, immediately reads as more relaxed and approachable. The open V-neck creates a longer, cleaner line, lending a touch of effortless sophistication without feeling stuffy. It swaps the preppy, athletic heritage of the standard polo for a more modern, minimalist feel. This shift reflects a broader trend in menswear that favors comfort and versatility—clothing that can transition seamlessly across different parts of your day. The Johnny collar turns the tennis polo from a piece of athletic equipment into a genuine style statement.
