Artistry Meets Innovation
This year’s theme, “Where The Future Is Made By The Hand,” feels tailor-made for Pat McGrath. Often called the “Mother of Makeup,” McGrath is the living embodiment of handcrafted artistry, yet her work consistently pushes the industry into the future.
This is the artist who gave us the viral, hyper-realistic “glass skin” at Margiela, a look so flawless it seemed almost computer-generated, yet was achieved through masterful technique. For Vogue World, expect this duality to be the main story. The theme’s focus on the dialogue between handmade tradition and artificial intelligence is the perfect playground for McGrath, who can make skin look both divinely natural and otherworldly in the same brushstroke. Look for textures that blur the line between human and sublime—skin that glows from within, but with a finish so perfect it feels almost digital.
The Two Faces of Milanese Glamour
Milan’s beauty identity is a study in contrasts, a dynamic McGrath knows how to navigate better than anyone. On one hand, there is the city’s timeless association with polished, luxurious glamour: think of the sophisticated ladies of Via Monte Napoleone, with their perfect red lipstick and impeccable skin. On the other, recent Milan runways have embraced a rebellious streak, championing messy, undone beauty—smudged “raccoon-like” eyeliner at Prada and chaotic swipes of color at Sportmax signaled a move away from the prim “clean girl” aesthetic. McGrath’s direction will likely play within this tension. Will she champion classic Italian beauty with a sharp, Sophia Loren-esque cat-eye and a bold lip? Or will she embrace the chaos, sending models down the runway with artfully smudged pigments and a lived-in feel? The answer is probably both. Her genius lies in balancing a statement feature, like a vampy lip, with an otherwise luminous and clean face.
McGrath’s Unmistakable Signatures
Regardless of the overarching theme, a few McGrath signatures are virtually guaranteed to make an appearance. The foundation of any look she creates is what she famously calls “divine skin”—a luminous, ethereal complexion that looks healthy, hydrated, and almost impossibly radiant. From that perfect canvas, anything is possible. We may see a return of her more avant-garde inclinations, such as the strategic placement of crystals, pearls, or even gold leaf that have defined some of her most iconic runway moments. Or, she could lean into pure texture, creating looks that rely on the interplay of high-shine glosses, velvety mattes, and shimmering metallics. Her work is always a story told through texture and light, transforming models into characters.
Inspired by Italian Masters
Given the setting in the heart of Milan, in the historic Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, it’s impossible not to anticipate references to Italian culture. McGrath is a master storyteller who often draws from art, history, and cinema. The beauty direction could pull from the dramatic chiaroscuro of a Caravaggio painting, with sculpted features and intense, shadowy eyes. It might find inspiration in the sultry glamour of Italian film icons or the rich, opulent textiles for which Italian fashion is renowned. Expect looks that feel deeply connected to the heritage of the city, reinterpreted through McGrath’s modern, global lens. The result is never a literal copy but an emotional translation—beauty that captures a feeling, a mood, and a moment in time.
