The End of Pop-Culture Spectacle
For a decade, Moschino was synonymous with one name: Jeremy Scott. From 2013 to 2023, the American designer transformed the Italian luxury brand into a pop-culture juggernaut. His tenure was a masterclass in viral fashion, sending everything from McDonald's-inspired
gowns to dresses resembling a chandelier down the runway. Scott’s vision was loud, cheeky, and unapologetically camp, attracting a legion of celebrity fans and turning fashion shows into must-see events. His departure in March 2023 marked the end of an era defined by joyful excess and boundary-pushing eccentricity. The move was amicable but left a massive question mark hanging over the brand: After ten years of high-octane spectacle, what could possibly come next?
A Heartbreaking Interlude
The brand's first step into its new chapter was filled with optimism. In late 2023, Moschino announced Davide Renne as its new creative director. A highly respected talent who had spent two decades at Gucci, rising to become head of womenswear, Renne was seen as a brilliant choice to lead the house. The industry eagerly awaited his debut collection, which was scheduled for February 2024. Tragically, that debut would never happen. Just nine days after officially starting his new role, Davide Renne passed away from a sudden illness at the age of 46. The announcement sent shockwaves through the fashion world, leaving Moschino's parent company, Aeffe, and the wider community in mourning for a future that was so cruelly cut short. It was a moment of profound sadness and unprecedented uncertainty for the storied brand.
Enter the Designer's Designer
Faced with an unimaginable situation, Moschino had to find a new path forward. In January 2024, the house announced its third creative director in less than a year: Adrian Appiolaza. Where Jeremy Scott was a pop icon and Davide Renne a seasoned insider, Appiolaza is best described as a designer's designer—a quiet force with an impeccable resume. The Argentine creative spent the previous ten years as the ready-to-wear design director at Loewe under the visionary Jonathan Anderson. Before that, he honed his craft at Chloé under Phoebe Philo, Louis Vuitton under Marc Jacobs, and Miu Miu. Also a passionate collector of archival fashion, Appiolaza possesses a deep, almost academic knowledge of garment construction and design history. His appointment signaled a dramatic pivot from celebrity-driven spectacle toward a more thoughtful, craft-focused future.
From Question Marks to Quiet Confidence
Appiolaza had just over a month to produce his debut collection for Fall 2024, a Herculean task under any circumstances. The result was a respectful and intelligent reset, leaning heavily on the archives of founder Franco Moschino. He revived classic motifs like trompe l'oeil prints, peace signs, and question marks, but with a softer, more wearable touch. It was less about Scott’s loud camp and more about Franco's original wit. His more recent Spring/Summer 2026 collection showed his vision taking clearer shape, inspired by the Italian Arte Povera movement, which championed humble materials. He turned ordinary items like potato sacks and crinoline bands into beautiful garments, proving that creativity doesn't require opulence. The humor was still there—in handbags shaped like grocery crates and newspaper prints full of good news—but it felt more cerebral. This new Moschino is less about shouting and more about starting a conversation.
