The Review That Started It All
The flashpoint in this now-iconic fashion feud was a review penned by Cathy Horyn, then the celebrated and feared fashion critic for The New York Times. Following his Spring 2013 runway show, Horyn published a critique that was anything but glowing. While
she acknowledged some “wonderfully cantankerous” elements like red latex pencil skirts and war-paint streaks in the models' hair, she dismissed much of the collection. The most stinging line, however, was a direct jab at the designer himself. Horyn wrote that Mr. de la Renta was “far more a hot dog than an éminence grise of American fashion.” To call a designer of his stature a “hot dog”—slang for a show-off or someone out of place—was a sharp and public dismissal of his relevance.
The Designer's Unprecedented Response
Most designers would have grumbled privately or perhaps barred the critic from future shows—a move Horyn was no stranger to. Oscar de la Renta chose a different, much more public path. He took out a full-page advertisement in the industry's trade bible, Women's Wear Daily (WWD), to publish an open letter addressed directly to Horyn. In it, he didn’t just defend his collection; he challenged the very nature of her criticism. He wrote that while he respected and accepted professional criticism of his work, he would not accept personal attacks. In a now-famous retort, he turned Horyn's own words against her, questioning, “If you have the right to call me a hot dog, why do I not have the right to call you a stale 3-day old hamburger?”
More Than Just a War of Words
De la Renta’s letter was about more than just a single insult. It was a line in the sand, drawn between a creator and a critic, and it highlighted a fundamental tension in the fashion world. De la Renta, an elder statesman known for his elegant, client-pleasing designs, felt Horyn’s review was bitter and personal. He believed professionals should criticize the clothes, not the people. For her part, Horyn was known for her sharp, unflinching analysis and a perspective that often championed more avant-garde or emerging talent over established names. The feud represented a clash of philosophies: Should fashion be judged on its wearability and beauty, as de la Renta championed, or on its novelty and cultural edge, as critics like Horyn often prioritized? The public nature of the dispute forced the entire industry to take notice.
The Aftermath and Enduring Legacy
The open letter became an immediate sensation, sparking debate across the industry. It was a rare instance of a designer of de la Renta's caliber publicly and eloquently pushing back against the powerful institution of fashion criticism. While the feud between the two simmered for years, the incident solidified de la Renta’s reputation not just as a master couturier, but as a passionate defender of his craft and his team. He argued that fashion should be about beauty, and he bristled at what he saw as needlessly cynical commentary. The “hot dog” versus “hamburger” exchange has since become a legendary piece of fashion lore, a powerful reminder of the deeply personal stakes involved in creative work and a testament to a designer who refused to let others write his narrative without a fight.
