Julie Kegels
LVMH Prize winner Julie Kegels opened the week, immediately setting a tone of thoughtful, wearable art. Known for her cerebral approach, Kegels’ Spring/Summer 2027 collection played with proportions in a way that felt both intellectual and surprisingly
accessible. Her use of color, like pairing soft baby blues with sharp, unexpected brights, creates a visual language that is entirely her own. She challenges the conventions of everyday garments, turning a simple skirt or top into a commentary on form and function, proving that conceptual fashion doesn't have to be unwearable.
Marie Adam-Leenaerdt
Belgian designer Marie Adam-Leenaerdt is focused on redefining the rituals of getting dressed. Since her label's founding in 2023, she has championed a conceptual take on wardrobe essentials that prioritizes timelessness. Her SS27 show continued this exploration, with themes of travel grounding the collection. Rather than chasing fleeting trends, Adam-Leenaerdt's work asks a deeper question: What makes a garment last? Her answer lies in impeccable construction and a quiet, confident aesthetic that feels both modern and enduring.
Pressiat
Founded by Vincent Garnier Pressiat in 2021, this label is for those who love drama. Rooted in the worlds of cabaret and underground nightlife, Pressiat has become known for its theatrical, gender-fluid designs and gothic romanticism. For his latest collection, however, Pressiat shifted focus toward a more restrained, commercial sensibility, proving that the brand’s subversive elegance can also translate to real-world wearability. The result is a collection that retains its dark, Parisian-chic edge while offering pieces that feel both special and surprisingly versatile.
Burc Akyol
Burc Akyol is bringing a sensual, personal vision of demi-couture to the ready-to-wear calendar. The French-Turkish designer mixes sharp tailoring with fluid draping, creating a tension between strength and vulnerability. His collections often explore themes of identity and heritage, skillfully blending Eastern-inspired motifs with a distinctly Parisian polish. Akyol’s work stands out for its sophisticated sexiness and meticulous craftsmanship, offering an alternative to both minimalist uniformity and overt maximalism. His show this season was a testament to the power of a focused, singular vision.
Fidan Novruzova
Making her Paris debut, Central Saint Martins graduate Fidan Novruzova is already a name to watch. Originally from Moldova and raised in Azerbaijan, her work is a rich tapestry of post-Soviet aesthetics, cultural heritage, and sharp, modern design. She is particularly known for her distinctive footwear, which often features squared-off, exaggerated soles that have become a cult item. Her ready-to-wear expands on this unique world, offering architectural silhouettes and a nostalgic-yet-futuristic point of view that feels genuinely new.
Hodakova
Swedish designer Ellen Hodakova Larsson is a radical champion of sustainability. Her label, Hodakova, deconstructs and reconstructs secondhand clothing and deadstock materials into entirely new forms. One season, belts become a dress; the next, teacups are fashioned into a bra. This season was no different, with the designer continuing her avant-garde exploration of upcycling. Her work challenges our perceptions of value and waste, turning the forgotten into something desirable and thought-provoking. Hodakova is less about creating clothes and more about questioning the very system of fashion itself.
Maxhosa Africa
Bringing a vibrant and essential perspective to the Paris schedule, South African designer Laduma Ngxokolo’s Maxhosa Africa made its official runway debut this season. Celebrated for his stunning knitwear, Ngxokolo’s designs are deeply rooted in the textile craftsmanship and beadwork traditions of the Xhosa people. The brand's use of bold color, intricate patterns, and luxurious materials creates a visual feast that celebrates African heritage while speaking to a global audience. This debut marks a significant milestone, enriching the Paris conversation with its unique story and aesthetic.
