Defining the '90s ESPYs Vibe
Before you can update it, you have to understand it. The style worn by athletes at the ESPY Awards in the 1990s was a unique blend of formalwear and confident swagger. Think oversized suits in high-shine fabrics, often with four or more buttons and shoulders
that seemed to have their own zip code. This was the era of the slouchy silhouette, where trousers pooled generously over chunky dress shoes or even sneakers. Icons of the decade, from Michael Jordan to Troy Aikman, embraced a look that prioritized comfort and a certain nonchalant coolness over the sharp, structured tailoring that came before and after. It was bold, a little flashy, and unapologetically relaxed—a stark contrast to the fitted suits that would dominate the 2000s.
The Secret Is Modern Tailoring
The single biggest update to make the '90s suit work today is tailoring. The key is to aim for “relaxed,” not “rental.” A modern oversized blazer should still have structure. Look for a jacket with a defined shoulder, but one that actually fits your frame. While the body can be looser, it shouldn't feel like you're wearing your dad's clothes. A contemporary take keeps the length in check—the jacket should hit around your hips, not your mid-thigh. For trousers, wide-leg is the goal, but they should be tailored to break cleanly over your shoes without excessive bunching. This creates an intentional, flowing line rather than a sloppy, ill-fitting one.
Reimagining the Shiny Suit
One of the most memorable—and potentially perilous—trends from that era was the shiny suit. Popularized in music videos and on red carpets, these high-gloss numbers were impossible to ignore. To bring this into 2026, think subtlety. Instead of a fully metallic or candy-apple red suit, opt for fabrics with a sophisticated sheen. A quality wool-silk blend, a deep satin, or a velvet can provide that luxe feel without looking like a costume. Another modern approach is to contain the shine to one piece. Try a satin shirt under a matte black blazer, or pair a classic navy suit with a pair of patent leather loafers to give a nod to the trend in a more refined way.
Elevating the Athleisure Mix
Pairing formalwear with athletic pieces was a signature move on the '90s ESPYs red carpet. Today, this high-low mix is more relevant than ever, but the execution has evolved. Instead of a baggy mock turtleneck, consider a fine-gauge knit polo or a slim-fit turtleneck in cashmere or merino wool. This provides the same layered look with a much cleaner silhouette. If you’re bold enough to pair a suit with sneakers, make sure they are pristine. A pair of minimalist, premium leather sneakers can look incredibly sharp with a relaxed suit; your beat-up gym shoes, however, will not. The goal is to look intentional, blending the worlds of sport and style with purpose.
Accessorize with Restraint
While the '90s had moments of minimalism, red carpet style often featured chunky accessories. To modernize the look, apply a 'less is more' philosophy. Ditch the tie completely for an open-collar look that enhances the suit’s relaxed feel. If you're wearing a chain, choose something more refined than the thick ropes of the past. A simple, elegant watch and perhaps a single ring are all you need. The oversized silhouette of the suit is the main statement; the accessories should be quiet compliments, not loud competition. The modern take is about confidence that doesn't need to shout.
