The Waist as a Focal Point
The debate between high-rise and low-rise is over; the new focus is on dramatically accentuating the waist, one way or another. On one end of the spectrum, runways showed off ultra high-waisted trousers and corseted silhouettes that cinch the waist and accentuate
the hips, creating a powerful, hourglass-adjacent shape. On the other, the cummerbund made a surprising comeback, borrowed from formalwear to add a structured, waist-defining layer to trousers and even dresses. Big, statement-making belts with sculptural buckles are also being used to draw the eye and break up silhouettes, cinching everything from blazers to knits. It’s less about a specific pant rise and more about using the waist as an anchor for the entire look.
The New Peplum
Just when you thought it was safe to declare the peplum gone for good, it’s back—but not as you remember it from the 2010s business-casual scene. This isn't the flimsy, tacked-on ruffle of yesteryear. The modern peplum, seen at major houses like Dior, is a feat of structure and tailoring. Think shrunken, sculpted jackets with a pronounced, kicked-out silhouette, or coats with a similar shape. The effect is less about hiding the midsection and more about creating an architectural, top-heavy shape that feels both pretty and powerful. It’s a deliberate play on volume that feels fresh, especially when paired with slouchy denim or a straight, simple skirt.
Contrasting Volumes
Designers are playing a game of push-and-pull with volume, creating tension by pairing oversized pieces with something unexpectedly fitted. The most common iteration seen during the recent menswear shows, which often predicts womenswear, was the combination of a long, flowing coat with tailored shorts. Another example is the pairing of dramatic, billowing harem pants with hyper-shrunken pea coats or razor-thin trousers with slouchy, open "boyfriend" blazers. This isn't about everything being baggy; it's about a specific, thoughtful contrast. The look is one of intentional imbalance, forcing you to reconsider how pieces relate to each other and creating a silhouette that is both relaxed and sharply considered.
The Elongated Silhouette
A move toward refined, elongated lines is subtly taking hold, creating a sense of fluid power. At houses like Saint Laurent, this translated into sharply tailored, double-breasted jackets with exaggerated shoulders paired with generously cut trousers that pool over the shoes. The look is uncompromising and authoritative. This trend favors soft, lightweight materials that suggest a preference for longevity and individuality over fleeting, trend-driven dressing. The idea is to create a long, unbroken line, whether through fluid tailoring or lean, body-contouring knit dresses, making the wearer appear statuesque and confident.
Deconstructed and Asymmetric Forms
Some of the most forward-thinking designers are finding novelty not in adding more, but in taking things apart. This trend centers on unraveling traditional garments to create new shapes. On the runway, this manifested as denim jackets that appeared partially dismantled or trench coats that unfolded into asymmetric constructions. Instead of being hidden, exposed seams become a core part of the design. This approach gives familiar pieces a sense of friction and creative play, proving that a shift in proportion doesn't always have to be about grand, voluminous shapes. Sometimes, it’s about the subtle disruption of a perfect line.
