Embrace Rough Opulence
The guiding principle of McGirr's debut is “rough opulence.” This isn’t about pristine luxury; it’s about finding beauty in the raw and the real. Think materials with a life of their own: thick, distressed leather that looks like it has stories to tell,
and chunky, sculptural knits that envelop and protect. The key is texture. Look for sweaters that feel almost matted or shaggy, and don't be afraid of pieces that have a weighty, substantial presence. This aesthetic finds glamour in the grit. It’s a leather trench coat wrapped tightly with a cord, or a sharp suit jacket unexpectedly encrusted with jet beads, like treasure found on a city street. It's less about perfection and more about a powerful, lived-in reality. When building your wardrobe, prioritize one or two statement pieces with this tactile energy—a formidable coat or a knit that feels like wearable sculpture.
Channel the Animal Within
A key theme throughout the collection is “revealing the animal within.” This translates most literally into the show’s most talked-about accessories: the hoof boots. These striking shoes, shaped to mimic a horse’s hoof and sometimes finished with a metal horseshoe or a ponytail of hair, are a bold statement about primal power. While not for everyone, the spirit can be adopted more subtly. Look for footwear with a heavy, grounded, or slightly strange silhouette. Beyond the literal, this theme appears in lopsided leopard print dresses and great, swaddling shearling or fur coats that seem to have a life of their own. The idea is to tap into an untamed, instinctual way of dressing. It’s about a certain wild sophistication that feels both powerful and real. Think about adding a single piece with an animalistic quality—be it a print, a texture, or a powerfully unconventional shape.
Play with Compressed Silhouettes
McGirr’s vision plays with tension, often through compressed and elongated silhouettes. This is an idea he borrowed and twisted from an early Lee McQueen collection, “The Birds.” Imagine a jacket with shoulders that are slightly too high or stacked, or jeans that are bound around the legs with denim ties. The effect is one of stylish constriction that gives way to unexpected shapes. You can see this in the oversized, funnel-neck knits that billow up to obscure the lower half of the face, or in sleek dresses that are wrapped and twisted around the body. To bring this into your wardrobe, think about playing with proportions. Pair something voluminous and oversized on top with something sleek and narrow on the bottom. Try a sharply tailored piece that nips in the waist to an extreme degree. It’s about creating a dynamic, slightly unsettling silhouette that challenges conventional shapes and catches the eye.
Find Power in Imperfection
A sense of beautiful chaos runs through the collection. One of the most memorable looks was a dress that appeared to be made of smashed mirror bits, inspired by the designer's own cracked iPhone screen. This is about embracing the beauty of things that are broken, twisted, or distressed. The campaign, set against the backdrop of East London, channels the renegade glamour of youth navigating the city's concrete sprawl. This translates to your wardrobe as an appreciation for a certain edginess. Think of razor-cut suits, denim that is artfully streaked, and the metallic shine of a buckle against worn leather. It’s not about looking sloppy, but about looking real. The clothes are meant to feel authentic to characters who are poetic and primal. Don't be afraid of pieces that have a bit of a past, or that look like they could withstand the future.
Commit to an Earthy, Brooding Palette
While there were pops of energizing acid yellow, the core of the collection is grounded in an earthy, brooding color palette. Deep blacks, rich browns, oxblood leather, and murky grays form the foundation. This is a wardrobe built on moody neutrals that feel elemental and strong. These colors enhance the textural qualities of the clothes—the shine of leather, the depth of a chunky knit, the roughness of shearling. Building a wardrobe around these tones creates a cohesive and powerful base. It allows the strange silhouettes and rich textures to take center stage. Start with foundational pieces in black or brown and then layer in other earthy tones. This is a palette that is less about fleeting trends and more about a timeless, primal strength.
