‘Wilding’ by Isabella Tree
To understand Hearst’s approach to sustainability, you have to go beyond recycled fabrics and look at the source: nature itself. Her Fall 2022 collection for Chloé was explicitly inspired by "rewilding," a concept championed in Isabella Tree's book. Tree and her
husband transformed their failing British farm by simply letting nature take over, resulting in a stunningly biodiverse ecosystem. Hearst used this idea as a metaphor for fashion, suggesting that by enabling natural processes, we can repair damage. Reading "Wilding" illuminates the deep-rooted, ecological mindset that led Hearst to make Chloé the first luxury brand to achieve B Corp Certification, a rigorous standard for social and environmental performance. It’s not just about using better materials; it's about a fundamental shift in our relationship with the planet, an idea central to her entire Chloé project.
‘Hilma af Klint: Paintings for the Future’ by Tracey Bashkoff
Hearst is a designer deeply influenced by art, particularly by powerful and overlooked female artists. Her collections often feel like wearable galleries of ideas. While at Chloé, she consistently drew from a well of artistic inspiration, and the spiritual, abstract work of Swedish painter Hilma af Klint is a perfect example of the kind of aesthetic she channels. Af Klint, a pioneer of abstract art whose work predated Kandinsky's, was driven by a complex spiritualism and a connection to the natural world. A book showcasing her work, like the catalogue from the Guggenheim's blockbuster exhibition, provides a visual key to Hearst’s Chloé. You can see echoes of af Klint's bold colors, mystical symbols, and organic forms in the prints, patterns, and even the philosophical underpinnings of Hearst's collections, which sought to blend beauty with a deeper consciousness.
‘The House of the Spirits’ by Isabel Allende
Hearst often spoke of designing for a strong, real, and multifaceted woman. To grasp the literary version of this muse, look no further than the magical realism of Isabel Allende. Though Chilean, Allende’s work captures a pan-Latin American sensibility that resonates with Hearst's own Uruguayan roots. "The House of the Spirits" is a sprawling family saga centered on a line of formidable women—Clara the clairvoyant, her passionate daughter Blanca, and her revolutionary granddaughter Alba. These characters embody a mix of strength, spirituality, earthiness, and resilience that feels perfectly aligned with the Chloé woman Hearst envisioned. They are intelligent, sensual, and deeply connected to their heritage, much like the clothing she designed: sophisticated yet grounded, with a story to tell.
‘Doughnut Economics’ by Kate Raworth
One of the most radical things Hearst did at Chloé was to prove that a major luxury house could prioritize purpose alongside profit. To understand the intellectual framework for this kind of thinking, Kate Raworth's "Doughnut Economics" is essential reading. Raworth proposes a new economic model that balances human needs with planetary boundaries, shifting the goal from endless growth to regenerative thriving. This concept perfectly articulates Hearst's mission. Her emphasis on circularity, using deadstock materials, supporting artisan communities, and measuring impact wasn't just a marketing story; it was a new business philosophy in action. The book provides the macro-level theory for the micro-level decisions Hearst made every day at Chloé, from eliminating certain materials to launching a resale program.
‘The Gaucho Martín Fierro’ by José Hernández
You cannot understand Gabriela Hearst's design language without understanding her connection to Uruguay. She grew up on her family’s ranch, and this upbringing informs everything she does. "The Gaucho Martín Fierro" is Argentina’s national epic poem, but its themes and archetypes are central to the gaucho culture of the South American plains, including Uruguay. It tells the story of a gaucho—a cowboy—navigating a changing world. The values of self-reliance, a deep bond with the land, and masterful horsemanship are all present. This cultural DNA appears in Hearst's work through her sophisticated use of leather and shearling, hand-knit ponchos, and an overarching sense of rustic, pragmatic luxury. Reading this epic offers a poetic entry point into the heritage that gives her modern, Parisian designs such a unique and authentic soul.
