It Begins with Massage, Not Cleanser
Forget a quick splash of water. Backstage, the prep begins with touch. Makeup artists like Charlotte Tilbury and Val Garland are famous for incorporating facial massage to wake up the skin. Using firm, upward strokes with a cleansing balm or facial oil,
they perform lymphatic drainage massage on stressed-out models. This technique does more than just feel luxurious; it boosts circulation, reduces puffiness, and helps to naturally sculpt facial contours. The increased blood flow delivers a rush of oxygen to the skin, creating an instant, healthy glow that no highlighter can truly replicate. At home, you can mimic this by spending three to five minutes using your knuckles and fingertips to massage your face while cleansing, focusing on the jawline, cheekbones, and under-eye area.
The Art of Targeted Multi-Masking
One mask does not fit all, especially when your face has different needs. Backstage pros ditch the one-size-fits-all approach for multi-masking. This involves applying different masks to different parts of the face simultaneously. A clay or charcoal mask might be used on an oily T-zone to absorb excess sebum, while a rich, hydrating cream mask is applied to dry cheeks. Under the eyes, you'll almost always see hydrogel patches packed with caffeine and hyaluronic acid to de-puff and plump fine lines. This targeted treatment ensures every inch of the skin gets exactly what it needs to become a balanced, uniform canvas, preventing makeup from clinging to dry patches or sliding off oily areas.
Embrace the Power of the Big Chill
Cryo-therapy, or the use of extreme cold, is a non-negotiable step for achieving that taut, poreless look. While elaborate cryo machines exist, the backstage version is refreshingly simple: ice globes, chilled facial rollers, or even spoons kept in a cooler. These tools are glided over the skin, especially around the eyes and jawline, after serums are applied. The intense cold constricts blood vessels, which immediately reduces redness and inflammation. It also provides a noticeable tightening effect, making skin appear firmer and more awake. This step is particularly crucial for early morning shows, helping to erase any signs of a late night and creating a smooth, primed surface for makeup.
Hydration is Layered, Not Slathered
The key to dewy, long-lasting makeup is building thin, strategic layers of hydration. After cleansing and masking, artists apply products in a specific order, from thinnest to thickest consistency. This typically starts with a hydrating essence or mist to dampen the skin, making it more receptive to what comes next. A targeted serum—often containing Vitamin C for brightness or hyaluronic acid for plumping—is pressed, not rubbed, into the skin. This is followed by a lightweight moisturizer, and for particularly dry or mature skin, a few drops of facial oil are pressed on top to seal everything in. This layering technique allows each product to absorb fully without pilling, creating a 'glass skin' effect that glows through foundation.
The Final Seal: A 'Grippy' Base
The final step before makeup isn't always a traditional silicone-based primer. Increasingly, artists are opting for rich, emollient creams or glowing balms that act as a hybrid moisturizer and primer. Products like Charlotte Tilbury's iconic Magic Cream or Weleda's Skin Food are backstage staples because they create a cushioned, slightly tacky surface that makeup can adhere to. This 'grippy' base not only provides a final surge of moisture but also ensures foundation melts seamlessly into the skin for a more natural finish. It's the ultimate secret for making makeup last under hot lights while maintaining a luminous, skin-like texture.
