The Illusion of Adjustability
Adjustable straps, tie-backs, and ruched sides have become the go-to signals for "inclusive" swimwear. They offer a simple, visible solution to a complex problem, allowing brands to market flexibility. But for millions of people, tightening a shoulder
strap does little to fix a suit that’s too short in the torso, doesn't accommodate a large bust on a small frame, or digs into the hips. Adjustability is a feature, not a fit philosophy. It's a welcome detail when the foundational design is already sound, but it’s completely useless when the core proportions of the garment are wrong. It creates an illusion of customization while ignoring the fundamental ways bodies differ.
Beyond Size: The Issue of Shape and Proportion
The most significant oversight in swimwear design is the failure to account for shape and proportion, not just size. A size 16 woman with a long torso and a B-cup has vastly different needs from a size 16 with a short torso and a G-cup. Yet, many brands design one-pieces based on a single, standardized torso length that leaves many with gaping tops or uncomfortable pulling. Similarly, bikini tops are often sold in generic S/M/L sizing, forcing those with larger busts into a frustrating choice: a band that fits but a cup that spills, or a cup that contains but a band that’s too loose. True inclusivity means designing for these variations, offering options like 'long torso' fits, and selling tops with bra-style sizing (e.g., 34F, 38D) instead of vague letters.
The Flawed Math of Pattern Grading
The problem often begins at the designer's table with a practice called pattern grading. Most collections are designed around a 'sample size'—typically a size 4 or 6. To create larger sizes, this original pattern is mathematically scaled up. The assumption is that a size 18 body is just a proportionally larger version of a size 6 body, which is fundamentally untrue. As bodies get larger, proportions change in non-linear ways. Hips may widen more than the waist, bust projection increases, and more support is needed. Simply adding inches to every measurement results in poorly fitting garments: gaping armholes, bottoms that are too wide but not deep enough, and a general lack of structure where it's needed most. Inclusive brands, by contrast, use multiple fit models across their size range to create separate patterns that honor the unique geometry of different body sizes.
Support Is More Than Just a Strap
For anyone with a larger chest, support is non-negotiable, and a flimsy, adjustable spaghetti strap isn't going to cut it. Genuine support comes from thoughtful construction. This includes elements like a built-in shelf bra with a sturdy elastic band, underwires for lift and separation, boning in the sides for structure, and power mesh panels for tummy control. It also requires high-quality, dense fabric that doesn’t become transparent or lose its shape the moment it gets wet. Too often, brands extend their size range without upgrading their materials or construction, offering a size XXL suit with the same delicate straps and single layer of fabric as the size XS. This isn't just a fit issue; it's a performance and confidence issue. A well-constructed suit allows for activity—swimming, chasing kids, playing volleyball—without fear of a wardrobe malfunction.
