The Runway’s Reflective Mood
First, let's define the look. We’re talking about “dewy,” “jello,” or “glass” skin—a complexion that appears luminous, hydrated, and almost wet to the touch. For years, it has been the holy grail in womenswear and beauty, popularized by K-beauty routines
and championed by influencers. It’s a look that screams health, youth, and a meticulous multi-step skincare regimen. On women, it reads as ethereal and radiant. But when designers like Fendi, Prada, and Dior began sending male models down the runway with that same high-shine finish, the effect was subtly but significantly different. Instead of just looking “glowing,” the look on men can border on sweaty, athletic, or intensely raw. And that subtle difference is where the story gets interesting.
The Clinical Difference
This isn't just a matter of perception; it's rooted in dermatology. On average, men's skin is fundamentally different from women's. Testosterone drives most of these variations. Men’s skin is about 20-25% thicker and has a higher collagen density, making it structurally tougher. More importantly for the dewy trend, men have more active sebaceous glands, which means they produce significantly more sebum (oil). While this helps keep skin moisturized, it also means male skin is naturally oilier and has larger, more visible pores. So, when a makeup artist aims for a “dewy” glow on a man, they’re working with a canvas that’s already predisposed to shine. The line between a deliberate, healthy-looking sheen and an unintentional, greasy slick is incredibly fine. A highlighter that looks angelic on one person can look like post-gym perspiration on another.
Artistry Over Application
Achieving the intentional dewy look on men is a masterclass in product selection and placement. It’s not about slathering on the same iridescent creams or serums used in womenswear. Runway makeup artists often use a suite of sophisticated techniques. The process usually starts with intense hydration—think hyaluronic acid serums and lightweight moisturizers—to plump the skin from within, rather than just layering shine on top. Then, it's about strategic highlighting. Instead of a blanket glow, artists might apply a non-shimmer balm only to the high points of the face: cheekbones, the bridge of the nose, and the brow bone. The rest of the face, especially the T-zone (forehead, nose, and chin), might be kept semi-matte to control the natural oiliness. This tight control is what separates the high-fashion “glow” from a simple case of oily skin, turning a biological reality into an aesthetic statement.
Why This Sheen Signals a Shift
So, why does this matter beyond the rarified world of menswear shows? Because it reflects a profound evolution in our definition of masculinity. For decades, the ideal for male grooming was invisibility. The goal was to look rugged, un-fussed, and effortlessly handsome—as if you just rolled out of bed looking that good. A matte complexion was the default. The dewy look is the antithesis of that. It’s a visible, intentional choice. It says, “I have a skincare routine. I hydrate. I care.” This aesthetic embraces a version of masculinity that is comfortable with self-care, vulnerability, and a certain softness. It reframes health not as brute strength but as considered wellness. By turning a biological attribute—oily skin—into a deliberate style, the trend subverts old expectations and makes room for a more modern, polished, and expressive man.
