Embrace a Softer Shoulder
The sharp, powerful 80s shoulder has had its moment. This season, London’s designers collectively relaxed. We saw blazers with softer, less structured shoulders that draped more naturally. This small change makes a suit jacket instantly more versatile.
A softer-shouldered blazer doesn’t scream “boardroom”; you can throw it over a t-shirt and jeans without feeling overdressed. It’s a shift from power dressing to easy elegance, making your most formal jacket feel more approachable for everyday wear. Designers like Paul Smith showcased this with suits that felt fluid and movable, rather than rigid and constructed. This is less about a new purchase and more about seeking out silhouettes that prioritize comfort and a relaxed confidence.
Layer With a Sporty Twist
The street style outside the shows was just as influential as the runways, with one major takeaway: unexpected layering is key. The old rule of a crisp button-down under a blazer is being replaced with something more dynamic. Think a slim-fit, high-quality hoodie or a fine-gauge turtleneck knit peeking out from under your suit jacket. Simone Rocha even collaborated with Adidas, fusing ruffles and bows with tracksuit shapes and footballer shorts, proving the high-low mix is here to stay. This blend of sporty and formal adds a contemporary edge and a dose of personality. It breaks the formal monotony of a suit and makes it feel more grounded, personal, and frankly, cooler.
Experiment With Proportions
One of the quickest ways to update your tailoring is to play with proportions. This season saw a tale of two trousers: either flowing and wide-leg or sharply cropped. If you normally wear a slim-cut suit, try pairing your blazer with a pair of voluminous, wide-leg trousers. The contrast creates an entirely new, fashion-forward silhouette. Conversely, if you favor wide-leg pants, try a cropped style that shows a bit of ankle. Designers also experimented with exaggerated hips and cinched waists, creating dramatic, sculptural shapes. While you don't need to go to runway extremes, the principle holds: changing the silhouette of one part of your suit can give the whole look a new lease on life.
Incorporate Unexpected Textures
A suit doesn't have to be just one fabric. London designers championed the mixing of textures to add depth and interest. Think of your classic wool blazer as a canvas. Now, pair it with leather trousers, a silk camisole, or even a pair of bleached denim jeans, as seen in collections that valued a lived-in feel. Street style stars were spotted in crocodile-printed leather, and designers like Burberry showcased tapestry-like fabrics. You can achieve a similar, more wearable effect by pairing your favorite blazer with something that has a different feel—a velvet skirt for the holidays, a linen top in the summer, or a chunky knit in the fall. It’s an easy way to make a familiar piece feel new and luxurious.
Find Your Power in the Details
Sometimes the biggest refresh comes from the smallest details. Tailoring on the runways came with a twist. This could be a blazer with a unique closure, a jacket with an interesting lapel, or trousers with an unconventional hem. Street style showed jackets cinched at the hip instead of the waist, creating a modern drop-waist silhouette. At shows like Aaron Esh's, double-faced suits and slinky bias-cut dresses worn under jackets offered a kind of artisanal glamour. For your own wardrobe, this could mean getting a tailor to add new buttons to an old blazer, using a vintage brooch to fasten your jacket in a new way, or simply paying attention to how you style it—pushing up the sleeves, popping the collar, or adding a silk foulard instead of a tie.
