1. The Crystal Slouch Boots
If one item could define the sheer Instagram-breaking power of Vaccarello’s early collections, it’s the crystal-encrusted slouch boot from Fall/Winter 2017. Famously worn by Rihanna practically off the runway, these boots, covered in thousands of Swarovski
crystals, were an instant sensation. With a reported price tag of $10,000, they sparked waitlists at luxury department stores like Saks Fifth Avenue and Bergdorf Goodman. They weren't just footwear; they were a disco-worthy statement piece that encapsulated the unapologetic glamour Vaccarello was injecting into the house. Finding a pair on the resale market today is like finding a piece of modern fashion history—a true trophy for any collector.
2. The '80s-Shoulder Blazer
Yves Saint Laurent’s Le Smoking tuxedo is a cornerstone of fashion history, and Vaccarello has made its reinterpretation a personal mission. Throughout his tenure, he has consistently returned to powerful, '80s-inspired tailoring. His blazers, especially from collections like Fall/Winter 2023, feature bold, sharp-shouldered silhouettes that command attention. These pieces are not quiet; they are about power dressing, often reminiscent of a Wall Street aesthetic but made impossibly chic. Unlike a fleeting trend, a Vaccarello-era Saint Laurent blazer is a forever piece—perfectly cut, dramatically proportioned, and a masterclass in modernizing a classic.
3. The Feather-Trimmed Mini Dress
Drama and texture are central to Vaccarello's vision, and nothing says it better than his use of opulent feathers. For the Spring/Summer 2018 collection, he sent out party-ready tops and skirts ballooned with ostrich feathers. These designs, often appearing on dangerously short mini dresses, became a signature of his high-octane eveningwear. Pieces like the off-the-shoulder ostrich feather-trimmed dress are pure, unadulterated glamour, designed to move and turn heads. Hunting for one of these is a quest for the ultimate party dress, a piece that embodies the celebratory, after-dark spirit of Vaccarello's Saint Laurent.
4. High-Shine Vinyl and Latex
Pushing the boundaries of sensuality, Vaccarello made high-shine materials like vinyl and latex a key part of his aesthetic, particularly around his Fall/Winter 2020 collection. He presented the Saint Laurent woman as a 'dark angel' in dresses that shone like asphalt after rain. These slick, body-hugging pieces—leggings, skirts, and dresses—were a provocative and edgy counterpoint to the house's more classic tailoring. While daring, these pieces are masterfully constructed, turning a rebellious material into a luxury statement. A vintage vinyl piece from this era is a bold acquisition that captures the provocative heart of Vaccarello’s vision.
5. The Plunging Velvet Mini
From his very first collections, Vaccarello established a uniform of empowered sexiness, and the plunging velvet mini dress was a core component. Often featuring asymmetrical lines, metallic accents, and a silhouette that was both sharp and fluid, these dresses defined his early rock-and-roll aesthetic. The richness of velvet, combined with the confident, leg-baring cuts, created a look that was both luxurious and rebellious. These are the pieces that solidified the modern Saint Laurent 'it girl' look. Finding an early example is to own a piece of the foundation upon which Vaccarello built his powerful vision for the house.
6. The Reimagined Le Smoking
While the blazer is a key component, the full Le Smoking look under Vaccarello deserves its own spot. He has consistently honored the house's revolutionary tuxedo for women, first introduced in 1966. His Fall/Winter 2026 show, for example, opened with a series of reimagined tuxedos, showcasing his dedication to the silhouette. He plays with proportions, sometimes adding exaggerated shoulder pads or stripping away linings for a softer feel, but the core essence of gender-fluid power remains. Owning a full Vaccarello Le Smoking suit isn't just owning a beautiful piece of tailoring; it's owning a piece of an ongoing dialogue with one of fashion's most important legacies.
