Establishing Worlds With a Palette
Before a single line of dialogue is spoken, costumes tell you what kind of world you’re entering. It’s no accident that the dystopian society of Gilead in "The Handmaid's Tale" is built on a brutally simple color code. The wives wear teal, the Marthas
a dull green, and the Handmaids a stark, unavoidable red. According to the show's designers and analysis of the source material, this isn't just for looks; it’s a tool of world-building and oppression, instantly communicating every woman's function and status. The red of the Handmaids symbolizes fertility, blood, and sin, ensuring they are always visible and defined by their reproductive role. Contrast this with the candy-colored pastels and vibrant jewel tones of a series like "Bridgerton." The Bridgerton family themselves are often seen in a tasteful Wedgwood blue, signaling their elegance and high social standing. Meanwhile, the rival Featheringtons are draped in louder yellows and greens, a visual cue that they are flashy, attention-seeking, and perhaps a bit desperate. This use of a family-specific color palette is a shorthand for their entire social strategy.
Color as a Character's Journey
A character's evolution can be silently and powerfully tracked through the colors they wear. A static character might wear the same silhouette and color palette all series long, but a dynamic one will see their wardrobe transform alongside their personality. Take Daphne from the first season of "Bridgerton." She begins the season in innocent, pale blues. As she navigates her tumultuous relationship with the Duke and matures into a duchess, her wardrobe deepens into richer shades, including purple—a mix of her signature blue and his crimson red, symbolizing their union. This technique is also used to show a character's alienation. In "The Crown," costume designers intentionally used color to isolate Princess Diana from the rest of the royal family. While the Windsors were often in muted, earthy tones, Diana would appear in a bold red or a vibrant purple, visually underscoring her status as an outsider and, eventually, a threat to their stoic uniformity.
The Psychology of a Single Hue
Sometimes, a single color becomes so iconic it defines the entire show. In "The Handmaid's Tale," the color red is more than just a uniform; it's a weapon, a warning, and a symbol of rebellion. Initially signifying the Handmaids' subjugation, the sea of red robes eventually becomes a symbol of their unity and resistance, a visual army that the regime unwittingly created. Color can also be used to create a mood. Colorists on "The Crown" have spoken about using a cooler, more desaturated palette in the early seasons to emphasize the young queen's isolation and vulnerability. As the series progressed and moved into more modern, turbulent eras, the colors became more saturated to reflect the changing times and stories. In this way, color works on a subconscious level, telling the audience how to feel about a scene or character before they even process why. It's a subtle art, but one that is consistently rewarded by Emmy voters who recognize its power.
Telling a Story of Status
In shows obsessed with social hierarchy, like the Emmy-nominated "The Gilded Age" or "Palm Royale," color is the ultimate status symbol. In "Bridgerton," Queen Charlotte and Lady Danbury are frequently dressed in deep burgundies, rich golds, and other metallic, opulent colors. These hues are not just about wealth; they communicate authority, wisdom, and power. A character's ability to afford and wear certain dyes immediately places them within the social structure. This extends beyond period dramas. In contemporary shows, a specific color can signify a character's brand or aspirations. The crisp, powerful suits of political players or the curated, brand-conscious tones of media moguls in shows like "Succession" or "The Morning Show" all use color to tell a story about ambition and influence. The designers behind these Emmy-lauded shows know that a character’s closet is a narrative tool, and the shades they choose are as deliberate as any line in the script.
