1. The Knight Bag
A new creative director's first 'It bag' is a statement of intent, and the Knight Bag was Daniel Lee's opening salvo. Unveiled in his debut Fall/Winter 2023 collection, this slouchy, softly structured bag is defined by its clever hardware—a horse-shaped
clip that nods to Burberry's Equestrian Knight Design. This allows the bag to be folded and carried in multiple ways, blending utility with a relaxed luxury. Crafted in materials from grained leather to shearling, finding an original Knight bag from that first season is like owning a piece of the brand's new, contemporary identity. It’s versatile, thoughtfully designed, and instantly recognizable as a piece of the Lee era.
2. An Item in 'Knight Blue'
Few designers are bold enough to introduce a new signature color to a house with as much heritage as Burberry, but that's exactly what Lee did with 'Knight Blue'. This vibrant, electric blue became an immediate hallmark of his vision, a stark and modern contrast to the brand's traditional beige. The color was splashed across everything from tailored coats to knitwear and even illuminated London's famed Harrods department store during a brand takeover. Securing a vintage piece from the early collections in this specific hue—be it a scarf, a sweater, or a coat—is a way to own the most vivid symbol of Lee's arrival and the brand's confident step forward.
3. The Amplified Check Scarf
The Burberry check is iconic, but it has also been a creative challenge for designers. Instead of abandoning it, Lee embraced it by blowing it up. His early collections featured oversized, amplified checks in bold new color combinations like deep green, purple, and bright yellow. These patterns appeared on massive, cozy blanket coats and scarves that swallowed models in a vision of maximalist British comfort. Hunting for one of these early, large-scale check scarves is a smart move. It represents Lee's irreverent-yet-respectful approach to the archives and offers a more contemporary way to wear the house's most famous pattern.
4. The Reimagined Trench Coat
No one can take over Burberry without tackling the trench coat. Lee's interpretation was to play with proportion and texture. His debut featured oversized trenches with details like faux fur-trimmed lapels, offering a more relaxed and commanding silhouette than the traditional, military-inspired versions. These coats felt both modern and deeply rooted in British outdoor life. By deconstructing the classic and adding elements of punk-inspired styling and exaggerated shapes, Lee made the trench feel fresh and exciting again. An early Lee trench is a collector's item that documents a pivotal moment in the evolution of a fashion staple.
5. Anything With an English Rose
Alongside bold graphics, Lee infused his collections with a sense of British romanticism, most notably through the recurring motif of the English rose. This wasn't a delicate, fussy floral; it was a graphic, sometimes moody print seen on everything from fluid dresses to sharp, tailored shirts. The rose served as a nod to British symbolism and heritage, but rendered in Lee's modern style, it felt cool and unsentimental. Finding a piece with this print from his Fall 2023 collection captures the softer, more artistic side of his vision, proving his Burberry isn't just about tough, utilitarian outerwear.
6. The Rubber Rain Boots
Known for creating cult-favorite footwear at his previous post, Lee brought his Midas touch for shoes to Burberry. A key piece that signaled his practical-yet-fashion-forward approach was the humble rubber rain boot, elevated to a runway statement. Drawing on the functionality at the core of the brand, these boots were often chunky, utilitarian, and presented in the collection's signature bold colors. They grounded the more eccentric looks and reinforced the theme of rugged, outdoor British life. A pair of these early-era boots is the perfect example of Lee's ability to blend high fashion with the everyday, making them a true piece of modern, wearable design history.
