1. The Return of 'Cloud Skin'
Forget the chalky, flat mattes of the past. The new matte seen across London is soft, dimensional, and almost dreamlike. Dubbed “cloud skin,” this finish is all about creating a velvety, soft-focus effect that blurs imperfections without masking the skin entirely.
Think of the diffused light of an overcast morning, not a layer of powder. At shows like Erdem and Bora Aksu, makeup artists achieved this by prepping skin with hydrating serums before applying a satin-finish foundation. The secret weapon? A loose, finely milled translucent powder, pressed sparingly into the T-zone with a velour puff. The goal isn't to eliminate all shine, but to control it, leaving the high points of the face with a subtle, natural dimension. It’s a sophisticated, polished look that feels both romantic and incredibly modern.
2. Hyper-Real, 'Lived-In' Glow
For years, the beauty world has been chasing an almost impossibly reflective, wet-looking “glass skin.” London offered a more grounded alternative: a hyper-real glow that looks less like a product and more like the result of a fantastic skincare routine and a brisk walk. This is skin that looks healthy, hydrated, and authentically luminous. On runways for designers like JW Anderson, the look was achieved by ditching heavy foundations in favor of tinted moisturizers, skin tints, and strategic concealer. The key is allowing natural texture, freckles, and slight imperfections to show through. The shine comes not from glittery highlighters, but from emollient-rich balms tapped onto the cheekbones, brow bones, and Cupid's bow. It's an aspirational yet achievable look that says, “I just have great skin,” even if it’s courtesy of a few well-chosen products.
3. Strategic Vinyl Accents
If the lived-in glow is for daytime, its high-fashion alter ego is the strategic vinyl accent. This trend takes the concept of shine and turns it into a deliberate, almost editorial statement. Instead of an all-over dewy look, makeup artists at more avant-garde presentations used high-gloss, non-sticky products to create focal points of intense, wet-looking shine. Imagine a slick of clear gloss across the eyelids for a deconstructed, post-rave feel, or a patent-leather sheen isolated on the very top of the cheekbones. This isn't about looking naturally dewy; it's about playing with texture in a bold, intentional way. It treats the face like a mixed-media canvas, where a patch of vinyl-like gloss contrasts beautifully against soft, matte skin elsewhere. It's a cool, slightly subversive way to wear shine that feels directional and fresh.
4. The 'Barely There' Base
Perhaps the most dominant trend was also the most subtle: a move towards an almost non-existent base. This is the evolution of “skinimalism,” where the focus is on perfecting the skin underneath rather than covering it. At numerous shows, models walked with complexions that were impeccably groomed but appeared free of foundation. This look is built on a foundation of, well, no foundation. Instead, the process starts with facial massage to boost circulation, followed by layers of hydrating essences and moisturizers. Then, a makeup artist might use only a pinpoint of creamy concealer to address any redness or blemishes, blending the edges until they disappear. The result is a celebration of real skin. It’s a confident, understated approach that suggests the ultimate luxury isn’t a full-coverage foundation, but the confidence to let your own skin take center stage.
