The Blessing and 'Curse' of Versatility
The core of the disagreement among makeup artists isn't a disagreement at all—it's a reflection of the almond eye's incredible versatility. This eye shape, which is wider than it is tall with a slight
upsweep at the outer corners, is considered a beautifully balanced canvas. Unlike other eye shapes that might require specific techniques to create an illusion of depth or width, almond eyes don't need a specific trick. They look great with almost anything. This is where the artistic philosophies diverge. The "disagreement" isn't about a right or wrong way; it's about the desired outcome. The question isn't "How do you do makeup for almond eyes?" but rather, "What effect are you trying to create today?"
To Elongate or To Round?
This is the fundamental split in approach. One school of thought aims to lean into the eye's natural shape, exaggerating its length for a sultry, cat-like effect. The other seeks to create the illusion of a rounder, wider, more 'open' eye. If you want to emphasize the almond shape, artists recommend keeping eyeliner thin along the lash line and thickening it at the outer quarter of the eye, often extending it into a wing. This draws the eye outward, making it appear more elongated. Conversely, to make the eye appear rounder and more doll-like, artists suggest making the eyeliner thickest right at the center of the upper lid. This technique draws attention to the middle of the eye, creating the illusion of height and openness.
The Great Eyeliner Debate
Beyond just placement, the style of eyeliner is a major point of contention. The classic winged liner or cat-eye is almost universally recommended for almond eyes, as it follows and enhances their natural shape. However, the execution varies wildly. Some artists advocate for a sharp, dramatic liquid liner wing that extends straight out to elongate the eye. Others, like celebrity MUA Lisa Eldridge, suggest a softer, smudged-out pencil liner applied only to the outer three-quarters of the eye to give definition without harshness. Then there's the tightline technique—applying liner only to the upper waterline—which defines the lashes without taking up precious lid space, making the eyes appear bigger. Each method serves a different purpose, from a sharp, graphic statement to a soft, blended enhancement.
The Lower Lash Line Controversy
What to do with the lower lash line is another area of artistic difference. Some MUAs caution against lining the lower waterline with a dark color, as it can close off the eye and make it appear smaller. Instead, they recommend using a white or nude pencil on the waterline to create a brighter, more wide-awake look. This trick is especially popular for making eyes look bigger. However, other artists embrace a defined lower lash line to add drama and balance to a smoky eye, or to further emphasize the almond shape. They might smudge a dark shadow just under the lower lashes, concentrating the intensity on the outer corner to maximize the elongating effect. Applying a pop of color on the lower lash line is another pro-tip for drawing attention to the eye shape in a modern way.
