French luxury house Hermès is once again facing scrutiny for its secretive and controversial sales practices, particularly around its most coveted products, the Birkin and Kelly handbags. Known globally
for craftsmanship and prestige, Hermès has also cultivated an aura of extreme exclusivity that goes far beyond price tags.
Why you can’t simply buy a Birkin
Unlike most luxury brands, Hermès does not openly display Birkin or Kelly bags in its boutiques. These handbags fall under what the brand informally calls “quota bags”, ultra-limited items released in controlled numbers to preserve rarity. Customers cannot walk in and purchase one on demand. Instead, access is determined by sales associates based on factors such as long-term loyalty, purchase history, spending across multiple product categories, and perceived commitment to the brand.
Even requesting a Birkin or Kelly requires securing a rare leather appointment, which is often allocated through lotteries or handpicked by store managers.
Hermès accused of client surveillance
A recent investigation by Glitz has gone viral and reignited debate around how far Hermès goes to vet its clientele. According to the report, sales associates allegedly Google clients’ home addresses to assess their wealth and lifestyle before offering quota bags.
Fashion journalist Louis Pisano revealed that Hermès employees also monitor customers’ social media activity. The goal is twofold: to evaluate status and to ensure clients are not reselling bags. If a purchased Birkin or Kelly later appears on resale platforms, both the buyer and the associate involved risk being blacklisted.
Who is a ‘Red Flag’ client?
Not all spending works in a client’s favour. Customers who aggressively collect non-quota bags, shop across multiple Hermès boutiques, or appear opportunistic are reportedly flagged. Loyalty to a single store and consistent spending across categories like homeware, scarves, jewellery, and ready-to-wear improves a client’s chances.
Taste also plays a role. According to sources cited in the investigation, subtle luxury markers, such as wearing watches from Audemars Piguet or Richard Mille, may be viewed more favourably than flashier alternatives.
Legal trouble and growing criticism
Hermès is currently facing an antitrust class-action lawsuit in the US, alleging that customers are forced to buy unrelated products to qualify for a Birkin. While the brand maintains that its practices protect craftsmanship and brand integrity, critics argue the system reinforces elitism and lack of transparency.
