Mumbai: A social media post I bumped into on Monday morning gave the sad news. B.Merwan & Co, that iconic 112-year-old Irani restaurant bang opposite Grant Road railway station on the east side has been
shut down. In 2014 too the place downed shutters, but opened soon after some emergency repairs. But this time it appears that it is being closed forever. A handwritten note pasted on its large closed door simply read ``We are closed. We thank you for your patronage."
Family Statement
One of the family members told the FPJ on condition of anonymity that ``there were some disputes and it was decided to shut it down with great reluctance." With this a piece of old Bombay has died.
The place was justly famous for its melt-in-the-mouth mawa cakes. You remove the paper from the bottom and the sides and bite into the warm cake and you are transported to another world. Heavenly is the word. Several generations of Mumbaikars will testify to the super quality of these golden brown cakes. They were so much in demand that by 11 a.m. the stocks would be empty. Boman, who was at the counter, would plead helplessness to those who had to return empty handed.
Mawa Cake Legacy
It was while in college in the seventies that I was introduced to these legendary mawa cakes. I had gone to watch ``Gone With The Wind" at Novelty cinema nearby and my friend took me to have the famous cake. But none was available. But, I made it a point to catch the BEST bus on route no. 66 to reach Grand Road the following day and got my first bite...and became an addict.
But later I had no difficulty in getting the stuff, because I became friends with the owners' relatives, Yasmin Kaikobad and her cousin Katy Irani who lived above the restaurant. Just one phone call was all that was needed and they would keep a dozen of these cakes for me to have in the evening. The only condition was that I should climb the wooden stairs to their homes upstairs gently and ``not make noise like a junglee." The Parsis loved silence.
Shrinking Irani Cafes
B. Merwan was also known for its ``double ande ka masala omelette" served with warm ``paavs", bun maska and ``paani kum chai." You could spend hours together at the glass-topped black tables and vintage Irani chairs, solving crossword puzzles or simply watching commuters rushing to catch their trains to the distant suburbs.
Last year, I happened to be at Grant Road and decided to go to B.Merwan's. I was shocked to find the friendly waiters missing. The owners had introduced self-service as part of a cost-cutting effort which was not liked by regular patrons one bit. A depressive mood prevailed in cavenerous hotel which was not to my liking. An old-timer indicated that the place may be shut. And that is exactly what has happened now. Two years ago Yazdani, a Irani restaurant on Cawasji Patel Street, Fort, known for its ``kharis" and ``brun maska", closed its dine-in section and kept only the take-away one open. Now the only go-to Irani cafes for me are Cafe Sassanian opp the round masjid at Dhobi Talao, famous for its plum cake and the pet-friendly Koolar at King's Circle where you get authentic Irani black ``chai" with a twist of lime.
To get details on exclusive and budget-friendly property deals in Mumbai & surrounding regions, do visit: https://budgetproperties.in/
