The Musical Overture
Ummrao Saaj, nestled within the Courtyard by Marriott in Mumbai's Andheri, pays homage to the legendary poetess Umrao Jaan and the rich culinary heritage
of her time. The dining adventure commences with an interactive entry ritual: guests are invited to play a xylophone to select a drink that resonates with their current mood, a prelude to the restaurant's unique 'Raag' cocktail menu. This innovative menu is structured around the seven fundamental notes of Indian classical music – Sa, Re, Ga, Ma, Pa, Dha, Ni. Each musical note corresponds to a specific cocktail named after a 'rasa,' or emotional essence, encouraging patrons to connect their feelings with their beverage choice. After identifying a resonant note, diners can peruse the cocktail's ingredients. If it aligns with their preference, it becomes their drink for the meal; otherwise, personal choice takes precedence, ensuring a personalized start to the culinary exploration. This unique approach sets the stage for an immersive and sensory dining experience that extends beyond the plate.
Joy, Bravery, and Flavor
Navigating the musical spectrum of the 'Raag' menu, a moment of indecision arises between 'Ga' (Joy) and 'Dha' (Bravery). Opting for 'Ga,' the choice lands on a vodka-based cocktail infused with kokum and curry leaves, topped with Himalayan soda, and elegantly garnished with a fresh curry leaf. This beverage, easy on the palate, begins with a burst of kokum and concludes with the aromatic zest of curry leaf, complemented by a subtle salty finish. Accompanying this drink are roasted cashews, dusted with a flavorful gunpowder chutney, which enhance the cocktail's fresh curry leaf notes. The bar manager and mixologist, Shubham, explains that all cocktails are served with a small 'gratis' – a complimentary accompaniment designed to amplify the drink's flavors. Notably, all cocktails on the 'Raag' menu are pre-batched, blended, and clarified to ensure a consistent and exceptionally smooth texture, making each sip a harmonious experience. This thoughtful pairing of drink and accompaniment showcases the meticulous attention to detail.
Modern Awadhi Evolution
The culinary narrative at Ummrao Saaj is a masterful collaboration between Chef Gaurav and Chef Siddiqui. Chef Gaurav injects modernity into traditional Awadhi cuisine, while Chef Siddiqui upholds its authenticity in daily operations. This synergy results in a menu that elegantly presents classic dishes with contemporary flair, perfectly matched by the thematic cocktails. A prime example of this blended approach is the 'Sil Batte Nimona.' Here, peas are mashed with traditional Nimona spices to achieve a hummus-like consistency, then elevated with a topping of malai, pickled onions, garlic, and crispy fried peas for textural contrast. Served alongside small pieces of tafftan bread, this dish is a delightful interplay of flavors and textures, embodying the restaurant's philosophy. The welcome snack, a selection of papads sourced from Lucknow and served with house-made pickles and mustard raita, further reinforces the commitment to authentic regional tastes, preparing the palate for the innovative dishes to come.
Engaging Palate Pairings
Before diving into the main courses, a sampling of other notable beverages and their food pairings is explored. 'Energy' (Re), a smoky rendition of Whisky Sour crafted with Paul John Gold, features aamchoor on the rim and is served with a piece of guava. The suggestion is to bite into the guava before sipping the cocktail to maximize the flavor experience. This potent drink pairs exceptionally well with 'Khasta Kachori,' a dish that also complements 'Bravery' (Dha). The kachori is filled with a unique mixture of green apple grate, goat cheese, and onion cooked in apple juice, served with dollops of chili mango pudina chutneys. For those inclined towards bolder flavors, the tequila-based spicy cocktail with aam papad delivers a kick, starting sour and ending with a lingering chili warmth, a perfect counterpoint to 'Ananas-e-Saaj,' a starter where pineapple is slow-stewed in pomegranate juice, hajmola spices, cinnamon, star anise, jaggery, and vinegar before being tandoor-finished. This starter, described as reminiscent of a murabba, offers a sweet and tangy profile that can even stand up to the menu's most complex cocktail, 'Wonder' (Ni), a dessert-themed concoction.
A Taste of Tradition
The main course at Ummrao Saaj presents a compelling array of Awadhi classics, expertly reimagined. For vegetarians, 'Maash Ki Dal,' a urad dal cooked in the traditional Awadhi style and then tempered, stands out. Served with delicate lotus stem garnish, it offers a rich and satisfying experience. Another recommended vegetarian option is 'Khubani ke Jamun,' which features apricot dumplings simmered in a mildly spiced red chili gravy, best enjoyed with roti and 'tamatar bharta.' Non-vegetarian diners are treated to 'Raan Willingdon,' a creative interpretation of the traditional raan dish. Here, the succulent meat is stuffed into a pastry, baked, and then served with its accompanying raan curry, a fusion of culinary traditions. Chef Siddiqui receives particular acclaim for his 'Haleem,' lauded for its perfect texture and exquisite taste. The dessert selection includes 'Shakr-amba,' a raw mango jam cake served with sauce, encouraging guests to mix the components for a delightful medley of flavors. The entire main course and dessert experience underscores the restaurant's commitment to delivering authentic Awadhi tastes with a sophisticated presentation.
