Pawn Shop is that sports bar. Find Dodgers, Galaxy, Lakers, Clippers, Chargers, Kings, and Grand Slam tennis matches on any of its 53 screens, a television bacchanal clearly designed for hardcore sports fans. On a recent visit at the start of football
season, Pawn Shop brimmed with blue-and-gold Rams jerseys — and there wasn’t a free seat in the house. The two-level space spans 7,808 square feet with a 50-seat bar, those 50-plus televisions of various sizes, seven private suites, and two video walls. Its namesake comes from the former pawn shop it lives in; the new iteration was founded by developer Diego Torres-Palma along with investors such as Olympian and Angel City FC captain Ali Riley, former NBA star Chandler Parsons, Los Angeles Dodgers president of operations Andrew Friedman, and Dallas Mavericks owner Mark Cuban.
All vibes (and celebrity backing) aside, the food here swings much harder than local sports bar competitors thanks to chef Tony Messina. The James Beard Foundation Award–winning chef got to explore a more whimsical side that contrasts his longtime fine-dining background with his New England origins, including a distinctly New England specialty: a reimagined Polynesian–New England pu pu platter. He also makes crispy beef tallow fries, a creamy cacio e pepe ramen noodle bowl, charbroiled Maine oysters, and a dry-aged tomahawk steak with roasted garlic and miso butter. This isn’t bar food: this is Pawn Shop food.
What to order
- You will want more than one serving of lemon pepper wings: If you have more than three people in your party, place two orders of Pawn Shop’s zesty, flavorful chicken. Before the wings arrive at the table, they undergo a dry-brining process, get dusted with flour and pressure-fried, then plated after shaken with a generous amount of proprietary lemon pepper seasoning. It’s one of the best versions of this dish in Los Angeles.
- Messina enjoys adding fruity elements to his seafood dishes, like snapper crudo flavored with spicy strawberry, black lime, and elderflower. The dry-aged branzino gets smothered in a charred strawberry salsa criolla that is at once bright and inventive, with heat that lingers after every subsequent bite.
- I always appreciate a fresh take on a hot dog. Messina’s elevated (and pricey) wagyu dog can be topped with Siberian sturgeon caviar, which provides a wonderfully briny pop.
- The pu pu platter will satisfy the table. Find a large, wooden dish that has a flaming mini hibachi grill at its center stacked with deep-fried pork spare ribs, beef teriyaki, crab rangoons, coconut shrimp, chicken fingers, chicken wings, and egg rolls, an homage to Messina’s Boston hometown. Grab something from this formidable plate and dip it into one of three sauces: duck sauce, sweet chile, or spicy mustard.
- A bucket of fried chicken remains a welcome sight, and Messina’s pickle-brined batch tastes as satisfying as it sounds.
- During weekend brunch, go with ricotta toast; loaded Tater Tots with cheddar, bacon gravy, and a fried egg; a full English breakfast; or cultured whey pancakes. Or, depending on your group size, order a complete spread of the above.
- Jason Kilgore’s cocktails are fun and potent. I kept coming back to the fruity, tequila-infused Amber Waves; the name is a playful nod to the classic film, Boogie Nights.
The vibe
Everyone gets wide-eyed as they enter Pawn Shop, a sprawling sports-watching wonderland filled with attractive servers and diners enjoying food and drink with eyes glued to one of the many television screens. The space feels expansive but tables will be packed from wall to wall during peak watch hours. Some people come dressed to the nines, but most are L.A. casual. In a city where high-end sports bars don’t often last long, this one feels like it has staying power.
Insider tip
Dropping in during game day might fail to get you a table, so book one. A private suite can be a lively spot for a group where you can play your own music and adjust the television volume or channel while team members zip in and out to take orders.
