I visited Cafe Charmant during its second week or so open, and here’s the short version: I really like the cooking.
The new West Village French brasserie comes from Eugene Remm, Tilman Fertitta, and Catch Hospitality Group, which has been on an opening
tear as of late withthe Corner Store ,the Eighty Six, andOr’esh. Of those, Cafe Charmant may be the one I’m most inclined to become a regular.
The Rockwell-designed room is handsome without feeling like a theme-park version of a French restaurant. And the crowd is a little more sport-coat, guy-named-Chaz than my preferred scene. But the food makes me want to go back
Chef Jake Tyler Brodsky worked under the late James Kent during his Eleven Madison Park years and spent the past seven years cooking at Palm Heights in the Cayman Islands. That experience shows up in a few tropical ingredients and Caribbean touches woven into the brasserie menu.
What to order
- Tuna Charmant ($29.95): Tuna belly with Nardello pepper, Castelvetrano olives, saffron aioli, and chips for dipping. It’s the sort of thing I’d happily eat at the bar.
- Polynesian shrimp ($19.95): Do not miss this one. Presented in a squash blossom, it’s crispy, savory, and sweet, with a tropical note that makes it stand out. If I had a piles of these, I’d eat them all.
- Razor clam spaghetti ($29): Linguine with clams would be my go-to last meal, so I was an easy sell on this spaghetti with vinho verde, parsley, and green chile.
- Iberico Milanese ($35.95): Served with yassa onions and fennel salad, this is a formidable dish — a good fall order — that’s a great share plate.
What to drink
Bar manager Sophie McGale’s cucumber sour was my favorite of the drinks I tried, served in a glass like an art project, with cucumbers arranged in a page inside the glass. The garibaldi was perfectly pink, and a Rob Roy was served with a small carafe surrounded by pebble ice.
Best for
Dinner with someone who cares as much about the food as the room; drinks and something to eat at the bar, particularly the tuna Charmant.
Insider tip
Don’t miss the chocolate mousse, scooped out of a giant bowl and served with a trio of add-ons: chocolate crunch, peanut butter cups, and malted milk balls.
